Dishwasher leaking ref

1. Check gasket around door. Remove old gasget and replace or fluff it out and replace. Normally gasket hardens at bottom corners.

2. Raise front stands higher. These are not sealed systems and they will leak out the front under the door.

3. Water level too high. Probably not it, but it should be below the outer lip at door, Max water level. Water level sensor stuck or plugged. Most models it is on the outside of the washer. Remove dishwasher and fix/diagnose.

4. Door not latching tightly. This could be caused by bad latch or a dish holder is installed backwards and hits the door.

5. Older models bottom motor housing gasket leaks. Plumbing hookup leaks.

 

Dishwasher Not Drianing ref

1. Will drain some on start up but not during cycle. This is indicative of clogged drain hose. Use 1/2 gallon of Clorox bleach and restart the cycle (this runs the drain pump) several times to clear out clogs. This also cleans the interior of the tub out. Replace faulty disposal.

2. Drain pump not getting power. If it comes on it could be plugged or pump blade is broken. Replace pump.

Dishwasher error codes ref

1. Master reset sometimes unplugging will clear codes.

2. COdes still show up? What are they? Look up and resolve that way.

3. Control board is disconnecting somehow. Remove panel on door and reconnect all wiring.

4. Control panel faulty. Remove and replace.

 

Dishwasher Nothing Happens REF

1. Check power at outlet. These should be hardwired and could be on a GFCI circuit, Find that outlet and reset it. Check Breakers.

2. Gettin power to the dishwasher? Remove panel on door and look for mice damage on low voltage wires. There should be power (low voltage going to control board). repair wiring if this is it. If not replace mother board.

3. Drain pump or recirculation pump broken. Will start but not continue in cycle.

Dishwasher no heat ref

1. No hot water available. Probably plumbed to cold water line instead of hot. Call a plumber. Good luck.

AC Swampref no water pumping

1. Unplug water screen around pump. Unplug injector tubes.

2. Check for power at pump. If there, replace water pump. Lowes has them.

3. Bigger systems can have more than one pump to increase water flow.

AC Swamp not cooling

1. Too humid conditions, replace with refrigerated AC.

2.  Insulation in panels is trashed, gapped or plugged, replace with blue insulation.

3. restricted water flow. water must soak insulation in panels. Add another water pump. Unplug water lines.

AC Swampref no air flow

1. Check belt on pulley and power to fan motor. replace if needed.

2. Check fan is it seized?

3. Fan okay? Check wall panel insulation and replace with new blue insulation.

AC Swampref Water leaking

1. Float stuck or needs adjustment.

2. Bad Plumbing.

3. Over spray reduce water flow or air flow. Run on low.

AC Swampref calcium buildup

1. Always have water flowing onto roof or down gutters. This will clean up buildup. good Luck

ACref not turning on.

1. Check voltages and breakers. Is thermostat on?

2. Condensor fan comes on? This is connected to compressor they run together. Check voltages at fan. Replace compressor connections. Is compressor turning on then shuts off? overheating, seized or capacitors are bad.

 

ACref not cooling

1. Fans must be clean and coils.

2. Compressor compressing? If charged and no temperature difference on suction/compression side replace compressor.

3. not enough heat on compression side. Recharge system. What type of refrigerant is used?

ACref rattles

1. Replace fans

gasheatrefno ignition

1. Thermal pile faulty.

2. No gas flow

3. High efficiency Air heaters must start fans to clear out any gas before ignition.

4. Spark ignitor dirty?

5. normally closed (nc) thermal sensors in series has an open circuit. Replace faulty sensor.

6. Fans and ignitor miswired. Rewire according to circuit board imprint.

7. Plugged in and switch on? Thermostat correct model? Low voltage check. Turn on thermostat and call for heat.

Gasheatref no gas flow

1. Turn on gas lines and check tanks. Check for freezing around regulators. 

2. LED oncircuit board flashing error codes?

3. High efficiency (plastic chimney) must clear out gases before ignition as part of sequence.

4. Relays clicking on? if not replace mother board. unplugg and reattach cables into mother board. Corrosion?

gasheaterref shuts down

1. Cover safety switch not depressed.

2. Light sensor dirty, Thermpile not registering heat source.

3. Thermal detector in stove pipe not detecting heat.

Gas water over ten

1. Replace water Heater. Jacobsen Plumbing, Georgetown Idaho

Topref errorcode

1. According to model look up on google enter diagnostic mode. If you cannot enter diagnostic mode replace Motherboard/control panel. Sometimes running through diagnostics will fix problem.

2. Look up error codes fix errors and clear codes. Disconnecting power will sometimes do this.

frontwashload spin/loud

1. no spin has error code. Washer pump could be plugged or broken. Door not locking, replace door latch or mother board. refer to error codes.

2. Loud is indicative of a wore out bearing inner and outer need to be replaced. This will also cause the tub to drop onto rubber boot on door and damage it. Normally occurs after five years of heavy loads. Bearings are extremely rusted and almost impossible to replace. Replace washer.

 

 

frontwashload front boot leaks

1. Replace damaged boot remove wire around it and replace. Reduce load size.

2. Inner bearing in tub is wore out and could be loud or seized. This drops the tub onto boot and damages it.

Topref Nothing happens

1. Check for power

2. Door latch is faulty, check and replace.

3. Motherboard is bad, replace motherboard (updated).

4. Drain pump plugged or broken, Replace and unclog.

5. Inlet hoses are restricted. Take off and clean screens at washer side. Use plyers to retighten 1/4 turn past hand tightening hoses.

Topref grinds/shakes

1. Grinding could becaused by objects jamming the drum. Remove obstacles. Clutch could be burned out, replace selector switch and gear hub.

2. Agitator not working and grinding. Replace Hub in Agitator. Test with a load.

3. Shaking -weak suspension springs need replaced.

4. No spin check belt and pulley from motor. Replace belt.

Topref leaking

1. Water pressure too much reduce valves to half setting. Spraying out the top.

2. If always leaking, Tighten Water hoses going into Washer. Do not use teflon check for a rubber gasket inside hose end. 

3. Check bottom of tub look for water discoloration remove motor and reseal. Bullets will puncture holes into sides and bottom of tub.

4. Water solenoids froze and cracked. Replace solenoids.

Topref wont drain

1. Drain Pump is plugged. Clean filter.

2.  Drain Pump is broken or disconnected. check for voltage (120v ac). Replace drain pump.

3. Motherboard bad, replace motherboard.

Topref Wont fill

1. Check hose filters at outlets and clean. Turn on water supply.

2. Door latch failed startup test, replace door latch.

3. Pressure sensor is plugged. Blow out tube from control panel to clear. Make sure tub is empty.

refdryer elec1

1. Check the voltage at outlet should be 220v. If not check your breaker box for burnt or faulty breakers. Any electrician can change those or we can. If voltage is at outlet, unplug and remove cord cover, check for lose wires and burnt fittings.

2. Heating element is burnt out. Take off front of dryer and replace heating element with mount (the old ones are always cracked and warped). Short screw drivers are a must. Check heating element for continuity. Could be thermal sensor but probably not.

refdryer elec2

1. If no lights or nothing-Check the voltage at outlet should be 220v. If not check your breaker box for burnt or faulty breakers. Any electrician can change those or we can. If voltage is at outlet, unplug and remove cord cover, check for lose wires and burnt fittings.

2. Rotate drum test if belt is still on. Replace belt and belt pully. Remove back cover check continuity of white thermal fuse. It is on the tube going into drum. These do not reset and must be replaced.

3. Control panel or selector switch is worn out. 

4. Door latch/indicator check and replace if faulty.

5. Bus Fuse in control panel area is not conducting. This occurs when nothing happens.

refdryer elec3

1. Coins screws could be trapped on teflon bushings each end of drum depending on model.

2. Oil impregnated bushings worn out. Normally they are two on the back of drum next to were most of the heat is produced. They will squeak loudly and eventually sieze the drum. Remove Drum and replace. The front ones are normally ok but could be replaced also.

3. Drum Motor start capacitors are not engaging. Or if drum does not get to speed, capacitors could stay on and burn out.

4. A Pen in fan housing will stop motor from turning. Remove back panel and check and remove obstruction.

refdryer elec4

1. Vent tube is plugged no air flow causes over heating/no drying.

 

refdryer gas1

1. Gas valve on? Take off front panel check if ignitor is getting hot. If it is replace gas solenoid is faulty. Thermopile is dirty or faulty, replace.

 

refdryer gas2

1. Thermopile defective or flame sensor is blocked. Check for blockage/replace.

 

 

refdryer gas3

1. Natural gas dryer using propane. Switch orifices (kit) or use natural gas.

 

refdryer gas4

1. Check no ignition

 

Infinity switch burned out must replace

estove ref

Burner needs replaced.

eref stove oven

Dual ovens the bottom will heat while door is open. The top door must be closed. Door switch may need cleaned or replaced. Regular stove may need to replace heating element (one of them is not working). Broil heat element is at the top so it may work while the bottom element remains cool. Faulty control board. Control board may need reset. Shut off power five minutes and restart.

gas ref yellow flames

Could indicate over pressure wrong type of gas. Propane has way more pressure than natural gas. Must replace orificies with correct kit. Regulator valves on the stove or going to the house may be faulty. If regulator valve in stove fails the broil or oven or normally both may not work. Replace regulator valve for correct type of gas. 

gas ref warms

Sometimes there is Propane going into a natural gas oven. This will cause flames to go across and along wall of oven. The Safety thermo-sensor on the side walls would get direct contact with flame and shut down the oven. Otherwise the flame adjustment is too low (oven). This can be corrected opening the vent wider (by orifice -oven) the flame should be blue, replace with correct orifice from kit, flipping orifice (some models).

gas ref noheat

Regulator faulty no gas flow. Ignitor (electric) must ignite before gas flows. Ignitor must get red hot, some do not. If it ignites and then shuts off replace thermal coupler. Sometimes control board. Check bottom drawer there is a small lever on gas regulator that shuts off gas. This must be in correct position. gas valves on?

Pilot light models- check pilot light and clean, re-ignite. Commercial models must ignite the first valve in a series or the others will not ignite.

electric spark- must hear and see the spark at jump point. Grease vaporizes and then condensates around wiring on stove top. This could cause sparker to continually spark or spark somewhere else. Unplug and clean under stove top with a degreaser.

Ice sheet forms at bottom of freezer. This is indicative of a plugged defrost drain. Must remove back panel, thaw and unplug drain. Water needs to flow out tube to drip pan. Leakage out door is same problem.

Leakage from drip pan on backside of refrigertor. This could be a leaking water line or  solenoid (water valve). If the drip pan is full the freezer is over defrosting suddenly, caused by low freon levels. Recharge freon in system.

Compressor replacement- hopefully this is under warranty. If not, typically getting another appliance is recommended. Super heated compressors (burning hot) might run for a few months. The lubricant vaporizes and goes throughout the system. This starves the compressor of lubricant and seizes. It is recommended to purge the system before replacing compressor.

Freon leak. At about 1/3 capacity of refrigerant the system will cool for about five minutes and then gradually warm up. If it takes a year to leak that much out it is ok to recharge each year. Leaks are nearly impossible to find especially slow ones. Pressure test system with nitrogen and use bubbles or a wand.

Icemaker faulty ref

1. Ice maker will not make ice if it is too warm. Make sure it is around cool enough. Solution: Check the refrigerator temperature and freezer temperature, ensuring that the freezer is set to 0°F (-18°C), and the refrigerator temperature is somewhere in the range of 33–40°F (0–4°C).

2.Arm positioned incorrectly.

Solution: Check the control arm to ensure that it’s in the “on” position. Tighten the arm if it seems loose, or contact a professional if the arm is completely broken.

3.Clogged water filter.

Solution: Be sure to change your refrigerator’s water filter once every six months, and be on the lookout for signs of an old filter. Some indicators may include odd tasting ice or water, slowly dispensed water, black specks in water or ice and, of course, limited to no ice production.

4. Water line shut off? Could be faulty solenoids. It should fill for about 15 seconds on starting the icemaker manually.

5. Iceing The fill tube could be blocked and leaking water to side. solution. Readjust tube and thaw out.
 
 
 

Ice Buildup possible options

1. remove panels and thaw out ice.

2. Replace fan

3. plugged defrost drain, Check defroster and timer.

4. Sometimes compressor is overworked and not worth replacing.

5. Sometimes capacitor/wiring needs replaced.

6. blocked air vents in freezer compartment

 

 

replace thermostat