TIPS FOR HOW TO INTRODUCE A NEW DOG
TO YOUR HOME
Here are some guidelines for how to make the introduction of a new dog into the home as successful as possible.
“Too Much, Too Soon” Syndrome
When a dog moves to a new home, either from another home or a shelter, it is a VERY stressful event! The dog needs time to figure everything out and feel safe again. It is critical that things are kept low key for at least the first 24-48 hours.
• No block parties, tours of the neighborhood, trips to friends, or inviting the whole family over to meet the new dog.
• If a bath is not mandatory, hold off for a few days. But eventually BATHE THAT DOG unless the dog has already been groomed!!! It is a great way for you to check for sores, lumps and bumps, and for you to see how the dog reacts to gentle handling.
• No overstimulating play. Shorter, quiet walks are best, where you’re not likely meet many other dogs or people – this is your bonding time. After the first few days good exercise becomes much more important – great for stress reduction and overall health.
Introducing the new dog to the home
The most effective way to do this is to keep the new dog leashed to you with a 6’ leash while indoors for at least the first day. This helps the dog feel secure and is tremendously calming. Free interaction of any kind in the first few days is a bad idea, as is letting them wander around the house on their own.
The new dog should never be loose with your cats until you first observe its reaction to cats while he’s securely leashed to you. With a leash, you can also check and correct verbally if the behavior is unacceptable.
Never underestimate the power of fear. New dogs will do things and show behaviors in the first 3-4 days that you may never see again, all out of fear. Take it slow, crate or leash, and keep contact with your own dogs limited or non-existent.
Use that crate!!!
Make sure that you and eventually the adopter have a wire crate set up someplace where the dog can observe the rhythm of the home – how the humans interact, the family routines, the temperament of the other dogs, the cats, everything. The crate should be set up so that a dog or child cannot walk around the back of the crate (so the dog does not feel that he/she is always having to watch their own back).
Feed the new dog in the crate and immediately pick up the bowl when the dog is done – don’t allow any opportunity for guarding that half-eaten dinner! And don’t worry if the new dog is not super hungry – stress is likely the cause!
Introducing the new dog to new people
Protect yourself by handling and speaking gently, don’t grab at collars or tug at them— touch a collar only enough to attach the leash.
Limit interactions with other family members, especially children, unless the dog voluntarily approaches. Don’t bend over the dog so that your face and upper body are in the dog’s air space when you brush or pet them or attach the leash, and don’t allow others to: this is very threatening behavior to a dog. Stand upright or sit to interact with the dog, or kneel next to them.
Once the dog knows the routine (who hands out the food, where he sleeps, where he potties, etc), he/she should calm down and be less reactive.
Introducing the new dog to other dogs
It is critical that we know how our foster dogs interact with other dogs – is the dog playful? Friendly? Curious? Dominant? Into “peaceful coexistence”? Without this information we cannot match our foster dogs to their best adopter-families.
This process starts by making sure that you are introducing your new foster to the dogs in your home (and a lot of the tips will be useful for the adopters).
To start, don’t take two dogs that are new to each other, each on leash, and let them strain toward each other. This is asking for “end of leash aggression”. There is something about the tight leash, and a new dog, and the owner-human standing behind the dog, that just begs for a bad outcome.
As most of you know, you always have the option of not introducing new dogs to the household dogs for a day or so. It’s much less stressful to come home and leave the new dog in the car while you put your dogs out in the yard or wherever you can confine them temporarily. You then get the new dog out of the car, do a brief leash walk for pottying (apart from the other dogs), show he/she the living area (wherever your dogs aren’t at that time) while still on leash, offer water, and then crate the dog using the setup described earlier. Once the dog is in the crate, let your dogs back into the house. There will be some sniffing through the crate: try to keep your dogs from crowding it, call some away if needed, and crack down on any lunging or barking.
Repeat the separation and pottying process in the evening and again the next day, and by the end of the second day, try them out in the yard together or do the walk on leash The interaction should go much more smoothly than if you do it right when the new dog arrives.
It’s a good idea to pick up all toys, bones, rawhides and so on, for at least the first week. Innocent curiosity on the part of the new dog may make the personal dog crazy with possessiveness, or vice versa.
Others prefer starting with the brisk walk technique
Take the two dogs for a brisk walk with a handler for each dog.
Do this on the street or sidewalk away from familiar territory. Walking on a paved surface also allow you to move at a good clip.
Keep the dogs on your outside leg and the two handlers walk parallel to each other but far enough apart that the dogs cannot reach each other. Stand straight, talk with one another, and just ignore the dogs as you walk briskly. Don’t let the dogs interact. Keep choking up on the leash if you need to, to keep them from pulling across in front of you to get to the other dog, and check them if they bark, whine or growl. You should notice the tension level and the drive to get to one another diminishing as you walk. When you see that, turn back with each handler doing a U-turn to the inside. Now the dogs will be closer to one another but still don’t let them connect.
Continue to walk briskly, keep the leashes short, and the dogs at your sides. Another few minutes of this and the dogs should start to pay less attention to each other and start to show an interest in their surroundings. If the dogs seem relatively calm and aren’t reacting to the other, you can start to loosen the leashes. If one dog puts his nose down to sniff and the other wants to follow suit, that’s a good way to transition to regular contact.
If all goes well on the walk - the dogs are able to move closer to each other, touch each other and sniff each other in a friendly way - you are ready for the yard! If not, just default to the crate method. One way or the other, a proper introduction can happen unless there is a much more serious issue here that requires a consult.