WAZ Adoption Application form Logo
  • WE ARE ZEUS (WAZ)

    A 501c3 non profit providing support and services to SC Animal Shelters, Rescues, and Communities.
  • PO Box 1851

    Lexington, SC 29071

    info@wearezeus.org

    https://wearezeus.org

    (833) 363-9387

     

  • ADOPTION APPLICATION

    Pet ownership is a serious responsibility. The policy of this adoption group is to ensure that each person who adopts a pet is aware of the responsibility and is capable and willing to accept that responsibility morally, physically and financially. The following questionnaire has been designed to aid both you and the adoption group in deciding if you and/or your family are adequately prepared to assume the responsibility of pet ownership. Please be sure to ANSWER ALL QUESTIONS and feel free to add your own comments. If a question does not apply write N/A. Please make sure to also email/submit a copy of your Driver's License.
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  • AGREEMENT

    Please take time to review this adoption agreement:

    We Are Zeus RESCUE program is for animals that are rescued from shelters or unsafe living conditions. 

    I/We understand that when the animal(s) is/are ready for adoption, the foster has priority to adopt it if no prospective adopter has inquired about the dog yet, otherwise the foster must defer to prospective adopters. 

    Foster parents can assist in placement process of their foster dog(s)but We Are Zeus RESCUE will make the final decision on adoptions. Foster parents who adopt must pay the same adoption fee as the general public. This fee will range from $150 - $450 depending on the treatment the animal received.

    I/We agree to abide to the policies and procedures of We Are Zeus RESCUE while an adopted animal in my care and understand that not following the policies and procedures, under any circumstances, may result in termination of the adoption agreement.

    I/We have read and fully understand the We Are Zeus RESCUE expectations.

    There have been no other representations or promises other than those included in this adoption application.

    I/We have read, understand, and agree to abide by the conditions of the We Are Zeus RESCUE Adoption Agreement and Guidelines.

    I/We understand and agree that I/We have read, and will follow how to Decompress and Introduce a New Dog to My Home.

    I/We understand that all work done with We Are Zeus RESCUE pursuant to this Adoption Agreement is at my/our own risk, and that I/we assume such risk freely and voluntarily.

    I/We agree that when I take physical possession of the animal, any and all supplies, medical care, treatments, and veterinarian appointments is soley my responsibilty and hereby release We Are Zeus from any and all responsibilities for the animal. 

    I/We agree that if for any reason I am no longer able to care for my adopted animal, I will contact We Are Zeus for recomendations and/or assistance. I/We further agree to take all recomendations and steps to work towards being able to continue caring for the adopted animal. If all means have been exhausted, said adopted pet shall be returned to We Are Zeus to prevent from being taken to a shelter or abandoned. A Surrender Fee will apply. 

    I/We hereby release We Are Zeus RESCUE and its agents and employees of any and all liability, property damage, and medical costs while I/we am/are providing care for for my new pet.

    I/We, hereby for myself (ourselves), heirs, administrators and assigns, fully, irrevocably and unconditionally release and agree to hold harmless We Are Zeus RESCUE and its individual members from any and all known or unknown, anticipated or unanticipated, suspected or unsuspected causes of action, charges, suits, debts, demands, claims, liabilities, losses, costs, expenses (including, without limitation, attorney's fees) or damages, including but not limited to any medical costs, damage to property, persons or other pets, of any and every kind, nature and description, at law or in equity, in connection with or arising from while I am caring for my new pet. 

  • Let’s talk about DECOMPRESSION.

    We have lately started requiring this for dogs because it works so well, but we found that a lot of people don’t know entirely what it means. Decompression is basically what we might term “crate rest” for a period of days while the dog is allowed to observe the home, other animals, and people while being offered a chance to collect themselves emotionally.

    Thinking about it in human terms: if you have ever been an exchange student, you may have experienced something like this... but imagine you didn’t know the language, or any of the customs, and didn’t know where you were. It can be incredibly disorienting and distressing! Humans are adaptable, and many pick up the “local norms” as they are with time and observation. Dogs are the same! Allowed time to observe and relax, they pick up the “norms”, schedules, and behavior of your household. It works especially well for dogs that have been in a shelter because it affords them time to decompress from the stress of a shelter environment.

    Here’s how to do it:

    1. Before a dog comes to your home, set up a crate in an area where the dog can observe your family but is not in the “middle” of the action. Partially cover the crate with a blanket so that your foster dog has a “cave” to retreat into if needed, and make sure the crate is up against a wall so the dog can feel confident no one can approach from behind.

    2. When you get the dog home, after pottying, allow them to hang out in the crate with fresh water. They go out to potty, and then back in the crate for food, water, etc. This is usually a 72 hour decompression process but can take as long as two weeks for an especially challenging dog or one that is having trouble integrating into the foster home.

    3. Allow members of your family and other pets to greet your foster in the crate, but don’t hang around it too much. My dogs usually cluster around the crate at first but I call them away and give them treats until everyone is calmed down and it’s “no big deal” to have the guest dog in our house.

    4. If you are expecting company, please relocate the crate to a quiet area temporarily or disallow guests to greet the dog - it’s important that the dog’s circle is kept small in the first few days.

    5. Slowly begin integrating the dog into your household by allowing short periods of freedom in your home and yard, always kept leashed or dragging a leash at first. Walking introductions with dogs are a great way to introduce a dog to existing pack members. You want this to be as low stress as possible, and go slowly, until the dog is fully integrated over the next 3-4 days.

    Why do we do this? There are lots of reasons to take this approach for foster dogs but the biggest one is that it allows dogs to relax before having to learn a whole new household. Personally, I’ve had dogs that come in snapping and growling at other dogs and being difficult to handle that come out of decompression another dog entirely - playful and friendly - and it only takes a few days. Without decompression, integration can take much longer and if dogs “get off on the wrong foot” with each other, they can occasionally fail to recover as time goes on. It’s best to take it slow the first few days so that everyone can be friends later on.

  • TIPS FOR HOW TO INTRODUCE A NEW DOG
    TO YOUR HOME

    Here are some guidelines for how to make the introduction of a new dog into the home as successful as possible.

    “Too Much, Too Soon” Syndrome
    When a dog moves to a new home, either from another home or a shelter, it is a VERY stressful event! The dog needs time to figure everything out and feel safe again. It is critical that things are kept low key for at least the first 24-48 hours.


    • No block parties, tours of the neighborhood, trips to friends, or inviting the whole family over to meet the new dog.


    • If a bath is not mandatory, hold off for a few days. But eventually BATHE THAT DOG unless the dog has already been groomed!!! It is a great way for you to check for sores, lumps and bumps, and for you to see how the dog reacts to gentle handling.


    • No overstimulating play. Shorter, quiet walks are best, where you’re not likely meet many other dogs or people – this is your bonding time. After the first few days good exercise becomes much more important – great for stress reduction and overall health.

    Introducing the new dog to the home

    The most effective way to do this is to keep the new dog leashed to you with a 6’ leash while indoors for at least the first day. This helps the dog feel secure and is tremendously calming. Free interaction of any kind in the first few days is a bad idea, as is letting them wander around the house on their own.

    The new dog should never be loose with your cats until you first observe its reaction to cats while he’s securely leashed to you. With a leash, you can also check and correct verbally if the behavior is unacceptable.

    Never underestimate the power of fear. New dogs will do things and show behaviors in the first 3-4 days that you may never see again, all out of fear. Take it slow, crate or leash, and keep contact with your own dogs limited or non-existent.

    Use that crate!!!

    Make sure that you and eventually the adopter have a wire crate set up someplace where the dog can observe the rhythm of the home – how the humans interact, the family routines, the temperament of the other dogs, the cats, everything. The crate should be set up so that a dog or child cannot walk around the back of the crate (so the dog does not feel that he/she is always having to watch their own back).

    Feed the new dog in the crate and immediately pick up the bowl when the dog is done – don’t allow any opportunity for guarding that half-eaten dinner! And don’t worry if the new dog is not super hungry – stress is likely the cause!

    Introducing the new dog to new people

    Protect yourself by handling and speaking gently, don’t grab at collars or tug at them— touch a collar only enough to attach the leash.

    Limit interactions with other family members, especially children, unless the dog voluntarily approaches. Don’t bend over the dog so that your face and upper body are in the dog’s air space when you brush or pet them or attach the leash, and don’t allow others to: this is very threatening behavior to a dog. Stand upright or sit to interact with the dog, or kneel next to them.

    Once the dog knows the routine (who hands out the food, where he sleeps, where he potties, etc), he/she should calm down and be less reactive.

    Introducing the new dog to other dogs

    It is critical that we know how our foster dogs interact with other dogs – is the dog playful? Friendly? Curious? Dominant? Into “peaceful coexistence”? Without this information we cannot match our foster dogs to their best adopter-families.

    This process starts by making sure that you are introducing your new pet to the dogs in your home (and a lot of the tips will be useful for the adopters).

    To start, don’t take two dogs that are new to each other, each on leash, and let them strain toward each other. This is asking for “end of leash aggression”. There is something about the tight leash, and a new dog, and the owner-human standing behind the dog, that just begs for a bad outcome.

    As most of you know, you always have the option of not introducing new dogs to the household dogs for a day or so. It’s much less stressful to come home and leave the new dog in the car while you put your dogs out in the yard or wherever you can confine them temporarily. You then get the new dog out of the car, do a brief leash walk for pottying (apart from the other dogs), show he/she the living area (wherever your dogs aren’t at that time) while still on leash, offer water, and then crate the dog using the setup described earlier. Once the dog is in the crate, let your dogs back into the house. There will be some sniffing through the crate: try to keep your dogs from crowding it, call some away if needed, and crack down on any lunging or barking.

    Repeat the separation and pottying process in the evening and again the next day, and by the end of the second day, try them out in the yard together or do the walk on leash The interaction should go much more smoothly than if you do it right when the new dog arrives.

    It’s a good idea to pick up all toys, bones, rawhides and so on, for at least the first week. Innocent curiosity on the part of the new dog may make the personal dog crazy with possessiveness, or vice versa.

    Others prefer starting with the brisk walk technique
    Take the two dogs for a brisk walk with a handler for each dog.

    Do this on the street or sidewalk away from familiar territory. Walking on a paved surface also allow you to move at a good clip.

    Keep the dogs on your outside leg and the two handlers walk parallel to each other but far enough apart that the dogs cannot reach each other. Stand straight, talk with one another, and just ignore the dogs as you walk briskly. Don’t let the dogs interact. Keep choking up on the leash if you need to, to keep them from pulling across in front of you to get to the other dog, and check them if they bark, whine or growl. You should notice the tension level and the drive to get to one another diminishing as you walk. When you see that, turn back with each handler doing a U-turn to the inside. Now the dogs will be closer to one another but still don’t let them connect.

    Continue to walk briskly, keep the leashes short, and the dogs at your sides. Another few minutes of this and the dogs should start to pay less attention to each other and start to show an interest in their surroundings. If the dogs seem relatively calm and aren’t reacting to the other, you can start to loosen the leashes. If one dog puts his nose down to sniff and the other wants to follow suit, that’s a good way to transition to regular contact.

    If all goes well on the walk - the dogs are able to move closer to each other, touch each other and sniff each other in a friendly way - you are ready for the yard! If not, just default to the crate method. One way or the other, a proper introduction can happen unless there is a much more serious issue here that requires a consult.

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