IMPORTANT UPDATE: HIGHLY PATHOGENIC AVIAN INFLUENZA

Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (HPAI) is a highly contagious disease that all birds can carry. While it can be passed on to people, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) currently considers it to be very low risk to humans.

In birds, symptoms can range from mild to severe, and in some cases, the disease can be deadly. For example, birds like ducks and geese often carry the disease without symptoms, but raptors who contract HPAI are at high risk of death. It’s important to note that even if a bird is not showing symptoms, they can still carry and spread the disease to birds and humans who come in contact with their saliva, nasal discharge or droppings.  
 
Since 2022, California has confirmed several positive cases of HPAI in both wildlife and backyard domestic birds, so it’s best to take precautions when coming into direct contact with birds. To protect yourself, wear gloves and a face mask whenever handling wildlife and always wash your hands after. We recommend additional protective equipment when handling wild birds, including coveralls, boots and goggles. 

Items that come into contact with wild birds (e.g., towels, sheets, clothes and other objects used to catch the bird) should be thrown away or washed immediately after use. The most effective method for cleaning and disinfecting items is a detergent followed by bleach diluted with water at a ratio of 1:32 bleach to water (a quarter cup of bleach to a half gallon of water).  

If you have pet birds or a backyard flock, please do not bring wild birds near them. If you come into contact with wildlife, change clothes and shower before interacting with pets. If you have visited an area with a lot of waterfowl, such as a park or pond with ducks and geese, change or disinfect your shoes before returning to your flock at home. 

Symptoms of HPAI in birds include: 

• Trouble breathing or gasping 
• Weakness and lethargy 
• Inability to fly or avoid people or pets
• Blueish skin or legs 
• Excessive discharge from nose or eyes
• Tilting head or lack of coordination 
• Cloudy eyes  

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For the latest information about confirmed cases of HPAI, visit USDA APHIS.
For more information about the disease, visit the CDC.
To report suspected HPAI cases, visit CDFW.

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Click NEXT (>) to Continue.

Domestic Bird

If you need help with a domestic bird, please exit this form and follow this link to the Lost and Found page for further assistance.

Project Wildlife does not treat domestic birds. If you arrive with a domestic bird, we will ask you to take the bird to Admissions at one of our San Diego Humane Society campuses.

Injured/Sick

*PLEASE NOTE: Many baby birds learn to fly from the ground and many nest directly on the ground. By the time they leave the nest, they are the same size as an adult bird and may be mistaken for an injured adult. If the bird is covered in regular feathers but still has gape flanges and wisps of down, they may be a healthy young bird.

• Gape flanges are bright yellow extensions on the side of the bird’s beak. This part of their beak is soft, fleshy and light or bright in color. In older birds, this part of their beak will harden and be darker in color.
• Wisps of down are the fuzzy feathers on top of the bird’s head. 
  
  

This is an example of a healthy young bird:

If a bird not flying is the only reason you suspect injury (and there is no visible blood, their wings don’t seem injured, broken or deformed, etc.), go back and select “Orphaned” as the condition. Otherwise, click NEXT (>) to select the appropriate reason for injury or illness.

Orphaned

Baby birds are most successful when raised by their wild parents. For this reason, we try to reunite baby birds with their families whenever possible.

Young birds are often left alone while their parents look for food or because the parents want to avoid attracting other animals to the nest. If you find a fallen nest, or baby bird without parents, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the bird has been abandoned or orphaned. We always assume the parents are alive and caring for their babies unless proven otherwise. 

If the baby bird appears healthy and parents were not found deceased, click the link for the appropriate species below to download step-by-step instructions for renesting and reuniting:

• Crows and Ravens
• Gulls
• Hummingbirds
• Pigeons and Doves
• Raptors
• Songbirds
• Woodpeckers 

If you think that the bird doesn’t belong to any of these categories, call San Diego Humane Society at 619-299-7012 for further guidance.

If you can confirm that the bird has been orphaned (because you have found the deceased parents or monitored the baby bird for some time without parents returning), we recommend immediately bringing the baby bird to Project Wildlife. If we find no treatment is required and determine that the bird is old enough to thrive on their own, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them. 

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information. 

Caught by a cat or dog

We recommend bringing the bird to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them. 

If a bird was caught by a cat, they likely have small wounds due to the size of cat teeth and claws.

If a bird was caught by a dog, there may be crushing and shaking injuries due to how dogs typically handle their prey. These injuries can include internal bleeding or spinal cord injuries.

To prevent future injuries and protect your pet:

• Keep pet cats indoors or in a secure outdoor enclosure (such as a catio).
• Keep dogs on a leash or check your yard regularly for wildlife before letting them out.
• Birdsbesafe® collars can help reduce your cat’s ability to catch healthy, adult birds, but they will not protect young birds who are physically unable to get away.
  
  

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Caught by another animal

We do not recommend interrupting attacks or fights between wild animals.  This is a normal, important part of nature that should not be stopped by humans. When humans interrupt this process, the attacked animal is often too badly injured to save and the hunting animal misses a meal opportunity, forcing them to catch and kill another animal.

If you have already intervened (or the conflict ended naturally), we recommend you bring the injured bird to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them. 

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Caught in a trap, glue or fly paper

We recommend bringing the bird to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them.   
 
Before bringing the bird in, follow the instructions for the type of trap the bird was found in: 

• Snap Trap: If you can safely remove the trap without allowing the bird to escape, please do so. If you do not feel confident that you can safely remove the bird without causing further injury or escape, bring the bird still in the trap immediately to Project Wildlife. 
• Glue Trap or Fly Paper: Cover the remaining exposed glue/adhesive with dirt, leaves, grass, paper, etc. to prevent the bird from becoming more stuck. Do not use oil, soap or otherwise attempt to remove the bird from the glue paper, and do not attempt to bathe the bird.
  
  

To prevent unintentional harm to animals, we strongly recommend that community members do not use these types of traps on their property. If you or your neighbors are having trouble with rodents in your home, please see more information about humane rodent removal and prevention here.

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Covered in oil, paint or other substance

We recommend bringing this bird to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them.   

If you found a bird covered in a substance (petroleum-based oils, food oils, paints, soot, sap, etc.), do not attempt to wash or remove the substance yourself. Successful washing requires specialized equipment and extensive training to avoid harm, stress or death. Instead, keep the bird in a warm environment until you can bring them to Project Wildlife. To report an oil spill, call the Cal OES State Warning Center at 800-852-7550. 

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Caught in material

If the bird is caught or tangled in material (such as netting, fishing wire, etc.), do not attempt to cut the material off of the bird, as this will increase their stress and may put your safety at risk. Continue to the safe capture information on the next page for further instructions.

If the bird is moving freely but clearly has material around their body, follow the safe capture guidelines on the next page. 

If there is fishing line coming from the bird’s mouth, do not cut it off. We may be able to use this line to remove any swallowed hooks. 

We recommend bringing the bird caught in material to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them.

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Flew into a window or wall

We recommend bringing this bird to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them. 

Birds commonly fly into windows because they see reflections of trees, sky or other natural areas on the surface of the glass. As a result, they do not realize they should avoid the window. Occasionally, they may try to avoid the window at the last second, but this causes them to hit the building instead.  

If the same bird is repeatedly running into a window (or other reflective surface), they are most likely trying to defend their territory. The bird is seeing their reflection, and they think it is a threat who needs to be driven away. In the short term, this behavior typically does not result in injury. However, if the behavior continues, the bird may become injured.

More information about birds and windows and how to prevent future incidents can be found here.

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Looks sick at bird feeder (fluffed, weak)

Bird feeders attract many birds to a single location. They can also act as an easy food source for sick or injured birds, which makes them a common source of disease spread. Weakness, low energy and puffing (fluffing up) are the first signs of many contagious diseases. 

• If you can catch the bird, we recommend bringing them to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them.   
• If you cannot catch the bird and they are still able to fly away, monitor the situation. Catching birds who are still able to fly is difficult, and typically only possible when the bird becomes too weak to fly. 
  
  

To prevent disease spread, we recommend not using bird feeders. However, if you do have bird feeders and notice any unwell birds, remove and clean your bird feeder as well as the ground below. Leave the feeders down for at least two weeks to allow birds to leave the area and prevent disease spread. As an alternative to bird feeders, we recommend using native plants and landscaping to provide natural food for local pollinators and wildlife.

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Trapped in a specific location

When freeing a trapped bird, be mindful of your safety. Do not place your hands or body in reach of sharp talons and beaks, especially when attempting to free large birds like raptors and gulls. Follow the instructions below based on the bird’s location:

Birdfeeder: Cut, bend or break the feeder to free the bird. If you cannot free the bird safely, bring the whole feeder with the bird still inside to Project Wildlife as soon as possible. We recommend disposing of the feeder and replacing it with a safer option.

Chimney: For birds like woodpeckers or swifts, dropping a sheet down the chimney may help them grasp onto the material and climb out. If this fails, open the flue to let the bird down into the fireplace and then follow the directions listed below for “house.” Installing a chimney cap will help prevent future issues. 

House: Guide the bird to the exit by closing as many inside doors as possible and then opening as many exit doors and windows as possible. Turn off indoor lights so that light is only shining in the open doors and windows. If the natural light isn’t bright enough, you can also shine a flashlight toward/through the exits to help direct the bird. Most birds will leave quickly. To prevent future issues, we recommend keeping doors shut (or installing screen doors), patching holes and using screens on windows.

Pool (empty or full): Find an object (such as a branch, log, piece of wood, chair, etc.) that the bird can use as a ramp or stairs to exit. Alternatively, use a shovel or broom to boost the bird to the edge of the pool. To prevent future issues, securely cover the pool when it’s not in use, install stairs or use a FrogLog ramp. 

Storm Drain or Sewer: You can attempt to open the sewer grate with a crowbar or similar tool. Gently scoop the bird out using a net, strainer or something similar. If you aren’t able to reach the bird or open the grate, call San Diego Humane Society’s Humane Law Enforcement for additional help at 619-299-7012 option 1. 

If the bird appears to be soaked, coated in oil or another substance, or is having trouble flying or moving away once out of the storm drain or sewer, we recommend bringing this bird into Project Wildlife for further evaluation and potential rehabilitation.

If the bird is a baby and their parent is present, try to give the mom or dad plenty of space and move slowly to avoid scaring them away (which can cause the baby to become orphaned). Capture the bird(s) and release them near the parent, but safely out of the road. Let the parent take over from there.

If the bird is trapped in a location that isn’t listed above,  please call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for more individual assistance. 

In most cases, the goal is to free the bird and allow them to move away on their own (unless specifically stated otherwise). Depending on how long they were trapped, they may be weak or have visible wounds. We recommend bringing birds who are clearly injured or weak to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the bird to where you found them.

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Found or nesting in unwanted or unnatural location

Follow the instructions for the situation that fits best. 

Entered a house, building or indoor space: You can help the bird find the exit by turning off all the lights inside and then opening as many doors and windows as possible to allow for escape. You can shine a light through escape routes (if natural light is not enough) and most birds will find the exit.  

Nesting on top of a building: Most birds will naturally be able to leave the nest without injury, or they will stay in their nest until they are capable of some flight to break a fall. However, young birds who are mostly independent and can move freely from birth (including ducks, gulls, etc.) on tall buildings in urban areas may need help. Call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for more guidance 

Nesting in a vent, house, balcony or other undesired location: It’s against the law to remove or relocate active nests belonging to birds who migrate. A nest is considered active if there are any eggs or young birds present. If the nest falls, you are allowed to put it back up. In cases where the nest poses a threat to human health and safety, you can contact California Department of Fish & Wildlife at 858-467-4201 for further assistance. 

Adult birds sleeping or sitting in undesirable outdoor space (with no baby birds present): If the bird has not been there long, there is the chance they will move along on their own. If they do not leave naturally, you can encourage them to do so by removing things they might be interested in (including food, water and material for nesting), blocking them from getting to the space in question, or installing humane deterrents such as motion activated sprinklers or scare tape. We do not recommend using bird spikes or Tanglefoot as they often injure or kill animals.

Waterfowl/waterbirds present or nesting away from water: It’s normal for some waterfowl to live in areas away from water. For example, gulls are often seen in the middle of urban areas. However, a few types of waterfowl should never be found out of or away from water (seabirds: loons, grebes, diving ducks, auks, albatrosses). If you found one of these listed birds away from water, we recommend bringing them to Project Wildlife for further evaluation and potential rehabilitation. 

Parent birds often pick areas to nest that we consider less than ideal, but nests are federally protected and you should not intervene unless there is a human safety risk. The parents will lead the young to the water once hatched. 

Waterfowl/waterbird family on roadway: Your instinct may be to help the family cross the road as soon as possible, but first make sure you’re safe! Stopping your vehicle in traffic or exiting and walking into traffic puts you (and others) at risk for severe injury and may be illegal. You can call local law enforcement or San Diego Humane Society’s Humane Law Enforcement at 619-299-7012 option 1 for further assistance. 

Damaging property

Birds may accidentally damage property for a number of reasons. Follow the instructions for your situation below:

If birds are creating many small holes, they are looking for food. Inspect wood siding for insects and treat as needed. Birds will continue looking for food as long as insects are present in the wood.

If birds are making one large hole, they are looking for nesting locations. Temporarily cover wood siding with plastic sheeting to discourage nesting.

If woodpeckers are pecking on metal roofing, antenna or chimney caps, they are advertising their territory and/or looking for a mate. Pad any metal with soft material to eliminate sound and the bird will go elsewhere. Both nesting and territorial pecking are temporary and will stop when the breeding season ends in early July. The breeding season for most woodpeckers in California runs from late April through early July.

Approaching people and/or pets

Birds may approach people and pets for reasons that do not require intervention unless the situation is dangerous or problematic. Choose the most likely reason for the behavior and follow the instructions below:

• The bird is young and cannot identify or avoid threats. Give the bird space and keep pets leashed or in another area until the bird leaves or matures. 
• The bird is young, possibly orphaned and desperate. Young birds who are hungry may wander up to anything that moves in an act of desperation. If you suspect this is the case, go back and select “Orphaned” from the concern list for further instructions. 
• The bird was raised and released by a person illegally. When individuals without a permit raise wild birds, they often raise the bird more like a pet than a wild animal. This results in a bird who is very used to people or seeks out the company of people. Sometimes, as the bird gets older, these interactions become dangerous and aggressive. Call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for more tailored assistance. 
• The bird is being fed by people and now sees them as an easy food source. Birds may come to rely on or expect food from humans. Over time, they become bolder and will get closer to people. To help prevent these interactions, which can become unsafe for both animals and humans, we do not recommend feeding wildlife. 
• The bird is suffering from a disease, injury or blindness. Birds who fall into this category are usually easy to identify. They often have difficulty moving, bump into things, or are visibly unwell or injured. We recommend bringing these birds to Project Wildlife. Go back and select “Injured/ill” from the concern list for further instructions.
• The birds is flying into people to protect their nest or young. Adult birds may fly into perceived threats as a way of indicating they need space. They are trying to encourage you to move on or move away from an area. Whenever possible, avoid the area and give the bird space. Alternatively, you can carry an umbrella or wear a hat to deflect the bird and protect your head. 

For the safety of people and animals alike, we do not recommend encouraging or teaching wild birds to approach people or pets. A healthy fear of humans and pets is essential to a wild bird’s survival. 

Eating undesirable items

You can prevent birds from eating undesirable items by blocking their access to the items or removing the items from the area. You can use fencing or netting to block birds from entering entire areas, individual plants or garden beds. Whenever using netting, make sure the net is easily visible (brightly colored or flagged) and tight to prevent animals from getting caught. 

Other humane solutions to consider are: 

• Completely remove attractive food sources from the area.
• Switch to animal resistant landscaping or hardier plants. 
• Use scare tactics that make noise or look scary to animals (things that move in wind, motion-activated devices). 

Because wild animals are our neighbors, please try to be tolerant and compassionate when approaching this situation.  We know this can be frustrating, but animals are just doing their best to survive and adapt to their ever-changing environment. 
 

Deceased

If the bird is not stiff or obviously dead, please confirm they are deceased before acting. Closely watch the bird’s chest for two minutes to check for breathing. If you don’t see any breaths, the bird is likely dead. If you still aren’t sure, and you are comfortable doing so, contain the bird and bring them to Project Wildlife. Alternately, you can leave the bird for a short period and check again for any movement. 

Deceased wildlife on private property: 

• You can leave the bird in place and eventually they will either naturally decompose or provide food for another animal.
• If you would like to remove the bird from the property, the property owner is responsible for coordinating removal. Refer to your local city, county or waste management department for further guidance or information. If you handle the deceased animal, be sure to wear gloves or use a shovel or other object to move them.
  
  

Deceased wildlife on public property/roadways: 

• Unless it is causing a public safety issue, leave the bird in place. 
• To request the removal of a dead animal from public property or roadways in the City of San Diego, use the City's "Get it Done" app or call Environmental Services at 858-694-7000. 
  For cities other than San Diego, refer to your city’s official web page for further guidance.
• The removal of dead animals from county-maintained roads or facilities is a service provided by Singh Group. They can be reached by calling 760-539-0012. 
• The removal of dead animals on freeways is handled by the California Department of Transportation (Caltrans). They can be reached by calling 619- 688-6699. 
  
  

In most cases, you cannot legally keep deceased wildlife, but there are special permits and exceptions. If desired, you can report the dead animal to the California Department of Fish & Wildlife. 

Unknown/Issue not listed

Your situation may be too specific or uncommon to cover in a self-help form. Please do not bring the bird to Project Wildlife before receiving more individual assistance. 

Please access help through one of the following ways: 

• Search our website.
• Email us at info@sdhumane.org (for non-urgent matters only).
• Call us at 619-299-7012 (for urgent wildlife matters not covered by this self-help form). 

Capture and Containment: Waterfowl, Seabirds or Shorebirds

Reminder: Wear gloves and wash your hands after handling wildlife! When handling waterfowl, gulls raptors or corvids, we also recommend additional protective equipment, including coveralls, boots and goggles to reduce the risk of transmission of Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (HPAI) 

Most small marine birds and ducks are harmless to humans and will simply flap their wings and kick to get away when contained. However, be careful when capturing birds with long necks or long/hooked beaks. When they feel like they are in danger, these birds will extend their necks and attempt to bite or stab with their beak. When handling these types of birds, wear eye protection and use thick towels or cloths, or try the passive capture method (see below) to protect your hands. Do not put your face near the bird’s face or neck. 

Birds who are able to move freely:

If a bird is still able to move freely, they will likely try to run away from humans. 

1. From a distance, identify where the bird may be able to escape (thick plant cover, water, etc.) and areas where you may be able to contain the bird (fence lines, garage, etc.). 
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to create a barrier. If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out. 
3. Stand between the bird and the escape routes you identified. You may need multiple people to surround the bird entirely to block all escape routes. 
4. Slowly move toward the bird, guiding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas. 
5. Once within reach, follow the immobile bird directions below.
    
    

Birds who are sick, injured, very young or otherwise unable to move freely (immobile):

These birds are unable to run away from humans. They likely feel trapped and vulnerable, which makes aggression more likely.   

1. Cover the bird, if possible, with a dark or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, etc.). This will help reduce stress and make them easier to catch. Make sure their head and neck are well covered. 
2. Restrain the bird by placing a hand over each wing. For birds with long necks or beaks, transfer one hand to their head or beak (over the fabric) to keep them from becoming uncovered. 
3. Place the bird into a container (box, storage container, etc.) with a lid and air holes. Do not give them food or water, and once they are in the container, leave the bird alone. Keep the container in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets. 

If you are not comfortable picking up the bird, you can use a passive capture method: 

Box and Top 

Cover the bird with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes. 
Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box with the bird inside and the ground. 

Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords.  Alternatively, you can slowly flip the box and flat object so the bottom becomes the top before securing the flat object in place.  

Items that come into contact with wild birds (e.g., towels, sheets, clothes and other objects used to contain an animal) should be thrown away or washed immediately after use. The most effective method for cleaning and disinfecting items is a detergent followed by bleach diluted with water at a ratio 1:32 bleach to water (a quarter cup of bleach to a half gallon of water).  

If you have pet birds or a backyard flock, please do not bring wild birds near them. If you come into contact with wildlife, change clothes and shower before interacting with pets. If you have visited an area with a lot of waterfowl, such as a park or pond with ducks and geese, change or disinfect footwear before returning to your flock at home.

Click NEXT (>)  for drop-off information. If you are unable to safely capture or contain the bird, click NEXT(>) to contact Project Wildlife for more help.

Capture and Containment: Raptors and Corvids

Reminder: Wear gloves and wash your hands after handling wildlife! When handling water fowl, gulls raptors or corvids, we also recommend additional protective equipment, including coveralls, boots and goggles to reduce the risk of transmission of Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (HPAI) 

Please use extreme caution when handling a raptor, and only approach the bird if it is safe to do so. Raptors have strong feet with long, sharp talons as well as a sharp hooked beak. When restrained, raptors will try to grab you with their feet and may also try to bite. The larger and older the raptor is, the higher the risk of injury to yourself. 

Corvids are often more intimidating than they are dangerous, but they are very intelligent and can be loud (cawing) and nimble. They also have very strong beaks that can pinch and cause pain if they bite.

To avoid injury, wear heavy gloves and use a heavy blanket or towel to cover the bird before picking them up. Avoid placing your hands underneath a raptor or near their feet, as raptors have an incredibly strong grip.

Birds who are able to move freely:

If a bird is still able to move freely, they will likely try to run away from humans. 

1. From a distance, identify where the bird may be able to escape (into a thick plant cover, body of water, etc.) and areas where you may be able to contain the bird (at fence lines, in a garage, etc.).
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to create a barrier. If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out.
3. Stand between the bird and the escape routes you identified. You may need multiple people to surround the bird entirely to block all escape routes.
4. Slowly move toward the bird, guiding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.
5. Once within reach, follow the directions below. 
   
   

Birds who are sick, injured, very young or otherwise unable to move freely (immobile):

These birds are unable to run away from humans. They likely feel trapped and vulnerable, which makes aggression more likely.   

1. Cover the bird, if possible, with a dark or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, etc.). This will help reduce stress and make them easier to catch. Make sure their head and neck are well covered.
2. Restrain the bird by placing a hand over each wing. For birds with long necks or beaks, transfer one hand to their head or beak (over the fabric) to keep them from becoming uncovered.
3. Place the bird into a container (box, storage container, etc.) with a lid and air holes. Do not give them food or water, and once they are in the container, leave the bird alone. Keep the container in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets. 

If you are not comfortable picking up the animal, you can use a passive capture method: 

Box and Top 

1. Cover the bird with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes. 
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box with the bird inside and the ground. 
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords.  Alternatively, you can slowly flip the box and secured flat object so the bottom becomes the top before securing the flat object in place.  

Items that come into contact with wild birds (e.g., towels, sheets, clothes and other objects used to contain an animal) should be thrown away or washed immediately after use. The most effective method for cleaning and disinfecting items is a detergent followed by bleach diluted with water at a ratio 1:32 bleach to water (a quarter cup of bleach to a half gallon of water).  

If you have pet birds or a backyard flock, please do not bring wild birds near them. If you come into contact with wildlife, change clothes and shower before interacting with pets. If you have visited an area with a lot of waterfowl, such as a park or pond with ducks and geese, change or disinfect footwear before returning to your flock at home.

Click NEXT (>) for drop-off information. If you are unable to safely capture or contain the bird, contact Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for more help.

Capture and Containment: Hummingbirds

Reminder: Wear gloves and wash your hands after handling wildlife!

Hummingbirds pose no threat to humans as they are too small to do harm. When restrained, they will flap their wings quickly to try to get away. Be careful when handling hummingbirds, as they are much more fragile than larger birds and can be easily injured.

Hummingbirds cannot go without food for long periods of time. If you cannot get the bird to Project Wildlife or another wildlife rehabilitator within an hour, offer a 1:4 sugar and water mix to the bird. Do not hand-feed or force the hummingbird to eat.

1. Cover the animal, whenever possible, with a dark piece of fabric (pillowcase).  This helps to calm them and make them easier to capture. 
2. Gently pick up the hummingbird by grasping the bird with the palm of your hand over the bird’s back, holding their wings to the side of their body.
3. Place the hummingbird into a container (box, storage container, etc.) with a lid and air holes. Keep in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets. 
   
   

Click NEXT (>) for drop-off information. 

Capture and Containment: Songbirds and other small birds

Reminder: Wear gloves and wash your hands after handling wildlife!

Most songbirds and other small birds pose no threat to humans as they are likely too weak or small to cause harm. However, be advised that when these birds are restrained, they may attempt to flap their wings, kick or bite to free themselves. 

Birds who are able to move freely: 

If a bird is still able to move freely, they will likely try to run away from humans. 

1. From a distance, identify where the bird may be able to escape (such as into a thick plant cover, in a body of water, etc.) and areas where you may be able to contain the bird (at fence lines, in a garage, etc.).
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to create a barrier. If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out.
3. Stand between the bird and the escape routes you identified. You may need multiple people to surround the bird entirely to block all escape routes.
4. Slowly move toward the bird, guiding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.
5. Once within reach, follow the directions below. 
   
   

Birds who are sick, injured, very young or otherwise unable to move freely (immobile):

These birds are unable to run away from humans. They likely feel trapped and vulnerable, which makes aggression more likely.   

1. Cover the bird, whenever possible, with a dark or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, etc.). This will help reduce stress and make them easier to catch. Make sure their head and neck are well covered.
2. Restrain the bird by placing a hand over each wing. For birds with long necks or beaks, transfer one hand to their head or beak (over the fabric) to keep them from becoming uncovered.
3. Place the bird into a container (box, storage container, etc.) with a lid and air holes. Do not give them food or water, and once they are in the container, leave the bird alone. Keep in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets. 

If you are not comfortable picking up the bird, you can use a passive capture method: 

Box and Top 

1. Cover the bird with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes. 
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box with the bird inside and the ground. 
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords.  Alternatively, you can slowly flip the box and secured flat object so the bottom becomes the top before securing the flat object in place.  
   
   

Click NEXT (>) for drop-off information. If you are unable to safely capture or contain the bird, contact Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for more help.

Location, Hours and Drop-off Information

San Diego Humane Society's Project Wildlife program is open seven days a week, except major holidays.

• If we are open, head to Project Wildlife at the Pilar & Chuck Bahde Wildlife Center (open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.) located at 5433 Gaines St., San Diego, CA 92110 or our Ramona Wildlife Center (open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.) at 18740 Highland Valley Road, Ramona, CA 92065 to drop off the bird. 
  
  
• If we are closed, please wait until we open to drop off the bird. Keep the container in a warm, dark and quiet location away from people and pets. Provide additional heat, such as a heating pad set to “low” under half of container, if location is cooler than room temperature. Do not give the bird food, water or medicine. 
  
  
  • Please do not panic if you must wait overnight to bring the bird to Project Wildlife. Only in very rare cases is waiting overnight the difference between life and death. Leave the bird alone and try not to check on them frequently, as this often results in accidental escape and increased stress. 
    
    
• • Members of the public can only legally keep wildlife contained for 48 hours with the intent of bringing them to a rehabilitator. Keeping wildlife for a longer period of time is illegal and inhumane, and animals who receive care sooner have a better chance for survival. 
    
    
  • If you cannot safely keep the bird overnight, call San Diego Humane Society’s Humane Law Enforcement at 619-299-7012 option 1 for further assistance. 

Thank you for your compassion for wildlife!

Each year, with support from friends like you, our Project Wildlife program cares for more than 10,000 injured, orphaned and ill wild animals.

To make a donation to support our lifesaving work, visit sdhumane.org/helphub.

If you have any questions or need further support, please contact us at 619-299-7012.

Special thank you to our friends at PAWS for this Wildlife Help Hub concept!