Foster Handbook

Introduction
Fostering an animal can be an extremely rewarding experience. By providing a foster a handbook, a foster home can drastically affect the "adoptability" of the animals they foster. We will give you information to help you provide the best experience for your foster animal so you’ll know what to expect. Thank you for becoming a Heart of Infinity foster — know that we appreciate you as we can only save animals when we have foster homes to put them in! 

Supplies Provided by Rescue (*if needed / requested): 

collar
leash*
water/food bowls in appropriate size*
dog/puppy or cat/kitten food (or special diet food as needed)
toys*
animal bed, blankets, or towels for comfort*

To help ensure the health and safety of your foster animal, the rescue asks that you adhere to the guidelines set forth, including the following:

1. Always keep a properly fitted collar with rescue’s identification AT ALL TIMES.
2. Keep your foster animal under your control at all times. If outside, always keep animal leashed and in a securely fenced area. FOSTER DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED TO GO TO DOG PARKS. 
3. Let our rescue know if you are no longer able to care for your foster animal. DO NOT give your foster animal to another person or agency. You can’t board your foster animal without rescue’s prior permission. 
4. Dogs require AT LEAST 2 weeks to decompress. In that time, they should be kept separate from other dogs (residing in the same household or not). 

Contact Information

Please contact us before taking your foster pet to a vet for any reason. We will provide emergency animal care center phone numbers and locations. 

Heart of Infinity Rescue’s MAIN CONTACT: 310.924.2101

SETTING UP  YOUR SPACE 

You want to make sure you are providing your foster dog a safe, quiet space to decompress from his/her time in the shelter.  

• Feeding: Plan to feed your foster dog separately from your resident dog(s).
• Mindset: Understand that fostering won't always be easy. With patience, consistency, and love, you will make great progress! We are here to support you every step of the way, so don’t be afraid to ask for guidance. 
• Energy: Be aware of the energy you are exhibiting. The dog is aware and is already responding based on your energy; either you mirror the dog’s energy or s/he mirrors yours. As a leader, you need to have the dog mirroring your calm and balanced energy. 
  ○  Try to avoid getting frustrated or angry when something doesn’t go as planned with your foster dog (which it inevitably will!). Take a deep breath, and back up a step or two in the process.

HEALTH OF YOUR FOSTER DOG (AND THE REST OF YOUR PACK)

The heath of your foster dog is of utmost priority to us and may vary depending on the dog you’re matched with. Most commonly, a foster dog would need a routine surgery like spay/neuter, vaccinations, microchip, flea medications, de-wormer, dental surgeries, ear/skin infections, etc. If, in partnership with our veterinarians, we determine your foster dog needs medical treatment, it will be provided by our rescue. Please keep in mind, however, is that we can only cover approved medical care at our partner veterinarians. If you choose to use an outside veterinarian and approve medical treatments for your foster dog without our explicit consent, we are not able to pay for or reimburse you for this expense. 

• Spay & Neuter: Please keep in mind that many of the dogs we take into rescue will come to us- and you as their foster- unaltered at first. We aim to complete this simple surgery within the first 2 weeks of the dog entering your care so they can heal during decompression time and be ready for adoption! 
• Follow Our Guidelines: We ask that you keep your foster dog separate from your resident pets for a multitude of reasons during the first 2 weeks. One such reason is that certain medical conditions (Kennel cough, Giardia, Coccidia, Ringworm) can be transmitted to your resident pets from your foster dog. If you do not follow these guidelines, we cannot be held financially responsible for the medical care needed for your resident pets. 
• Follow Medical Instructions: This is especially important during recovery from surgery. Please understand that not following medical instructions could cause a setback for your foster dog while healing. It is mandatory that, if one is provided, you please KEEP THE CONE ON. If you remove the e-collar, you will be responsible for any medical costs resulting from e-collar removal/switches. 
  ●  Known Medical Conditions: We will inform you of and discuss with you the known medical conditions of your foster dog. Not everything will be known to us immediately, so please understand that there will be some medical conditions that we will all learn about and address together along the way. This is another reason to keep the foster dog separate from your resident pets for the first 2 weeks.
  
  DECOMPRESSION PERIOD

Definition : After the stress of changing environments, dogs need a “decompression” period to help them return to a calm, relaxed, SAFE state of mind. 

Rationale: Bringing a dog into your home may be happy and exciting for you, but it can be confusing and scary for the dog. Showering the dog with affection and “fun” new experiences may make you feel good, but this isn’t about you. This is about what is best for the dog. Decompression is a safe and effective way for your foster dog to take in the new sights, sounds, and smells of their new environment without being directly involved with it. It gives structure to the dog and prevents them from making poor choices while they are learning the rules and expectations. 

• Procedure: For at least 2 weeks, your foster dog’s life should be incredibly simple and boring while they decompress and acclimate in your home.
• Have a daily routine planned out prior to the dog coming home. From bathroom breaks to crate time, to short walks in quiet boring places, the entire day should be on a schedule. See the section “Establishing a Routine” for a sample daily schedule for your foster dog - you may change the times to fit your needs, but we strongly recommend sticking to this schedule in order to set your foster dog up for success. 
• Dogs find comfort in routine more than they do belly rubs and cuddles. For that reason, keep the affection to a minimum. Their “love language” is actually confident leadership versus being pet. 
• Remember that“ you get what you pet, ”so whatever state of mind the dog is in, you reinforce that when giving affection. Only give affection when the dog is displaying calm behavior, and they will learn to be calm more often. Keep petting and other forms of affection to 5 seconds or less at a time - don’t overdo it.
• Things to avoid during the decompression period: 
  
  • Introducing your foster dog to new people outside of your
    immediate family - It is important for your foster dog to build a strong relationship with you before introducing new people. The more new things we present to the foster dog at once, the greater the chance s/he will become overwhelmed and make a poor choice such as jumping, lunging, mouthing, biting, etc. 
  • Introducing your foster dog to your resident dog(s) or other dog(s), whether or not you know the dog(s) personally - As above, it is important for your foster dog to build a strong relationship with you before introducing new animals. The more new things we present to the foster dog at once, the greater the chance s/he will become overwhelmed and make a poor choice such as jumping, lunging, mouthing, biting, etc. 
  • Allowing lots of excitement, play time, or rough-housing - This type of behavior often leads to overstimulation on the part of the dog, and can lead to a bite incident. Many dogs have not been taught how to play nicely, so it will be up to you (eventually) to teach gentle behavior at a low level of excitement. This should happen after the decompression period, in small doses, cutting the play time short if the energy level begins to escalate. 
  • Allowing “free time” for the foster dog, either in the home or outside the home - The more freedom we allow the foster dog, the greater likelihood of a poor choice. They do not know what they should and should not do in this new environment, so we need to limit their ability to test those boundaries. The more we practice structured, calm behavior, the more this becomes “the new normal” for the dog. A leash is our best tool to guide them! 
  • Lots of petting and touching of the foster dog - While petting can be fun for us, it can be stressful for the dog. Many dogs do not want to be touched right away, and this can add to the discomfort of being in a new home if we insist on it. We can also inadvertently reinforce unwanted states of mind such as anxiety, a lack of confidence, or fear. Remember to model calm behavior for your foster dog at all times. 
  • Baby talk/ high-pitched voice - Don't do it! This is incredibly exciting and rewarding for most dogs, and we as humans tend to overdo it. This can quickly lead to overexcitement. Even when providing verbal praise, keep your voice calm, gentle, and even-toned. 
  • Going outside of your neighborhood - Choose a quiet route for walks that works for you and stick to it. Do not introduce parks, hikes, or other new environments during the decompression period.
    
    
• Things to focus on during the decompression period:  
  •  Crate training - The crate is a positive place. Think of it like the dog’s bedroom. During the decompression period, the dog will spend a lot of time in the crate. It is important to associate positivity with the crate. Even while the dog is out of the crate, leave the crate door open. Toss treats in the crate for your dog to retrieve and they will start to associate the crate with good things. Never physically push your dog into a crate, because it will create negative association. Instead, encourage the dog with positive things like calm praise and treats. If needed, use the leash to guide the dog into the crate using steady leash pressure. Make sure to release the leash pressure when the dog begins moving into the crate. Repeat pressure and release as needed until the dog is in the crate. See the “Inside the Home” video and section on Crate Training for more information. 
  • Leash work - Keep your foster dog on leash at all times, including inside the home. This allows you to easily redirect the dog and teach them what is and is not acceptable behavior. For example, you can guide them down from jumping on furniture safely without having to grab their collar, which could be a potential trigger. Either hold the leash, tether the dog to a heavy piece of furniture (if doing place training etc. - and always monitor closely!), or eventually allow the dog to drag the leash around loosely without holding it. See the “Outside the Home” video and section on General Training for more information on how to teach your dog to walk on leash without pulling. 
  • Threshold training - Threshold training involves teaching your foster dog to respect thresholds (crate door, gates, front door, etc.) using your body language, the leash, and lots of patience. This will help prevent “door dashing” and other potentially dangerous behaviors, as well as teach the dog to look to you for guidance and direction. See the “Inside the Home” video and General Training section for more information on how to teach this skill. 
  • Place work - This is the only acceptable form of “free time” your foster dog should have during the decompression period. They should be on leash - either with you holding the leash, or with the leash tethered to a heavy piece of furniture (if it is safe for you to do so given your home setup). They must be closely monitored when doing place work - this is not an opportunity for you to walk away from them. See the “Inside the Home” video and General Training section for more information on how to teach and reinforce “place.”  
  • Your foster dog’s body language - It is very common for foster dogs to become stressed out and behave differently in the first few days and weeks of being in a new home. It’s important to minimize their stress level by keeping their energy calm, maintaining routine, and being aware if you are noticing any anxious, fearful, aggressive, etc. body language. This is a clear sign that you need to slow down, identify the stressor(s), and try to minimize or eliminate the stressor for the foster dog. See  the body language charts below - we want calm, relaxed, neutral body language as much as possible!   
  • Taking things slowly - Don’t rush the decompression process. Be patient and plan for everything to take twice as long as you think it will - this gives you plenty of time to wait for the behavior you want out of your foster dog, and reinforce it accordingly. 

3-3-3 Rule: While each dog will adjust and adapt at his or her own pace, it’s important to allow time for transitions to occur. See the infographic for more information on what to expect during the first days, weeks, and months of bringing a foster dog into your home.

BEHAVIORAL ISSUES

It is common for an animal to experience some behavioral problems and need a period of adjustment as well as time to decompress when placed into a new environment. Foster homes are in a unique position to help increase the "adoptability" of their foster animals by providing some basic training. The following is a list of common behavioral problems as well as suggestions for behavior modification.

Trigger Stacking: 

Dogs get stressed with changes - some cause more stress than others. In a normal situation, dogs may experience one “trigger” or stressor at a time, and be able to react appropriately to it. 

• Part of the reason decompression is so important is that it helps avoid “trigger stacking” for the foster dog. 
• A dog coming out of the shelter is experiencing A LOT of changes all at once, which can lead to them becoming overwhelmed with stress. 
• Dogs will choose fight or flight - either of these responses can lead to a dangerous situation for both dog(s) and humans.
• Introduce changes slowly to set your foster dog up for success - this includes introducing new people, animals, and environments. 

Slow Integration is Key:

• Note that you don’t need to integrate the foster and resident dogs at all. You may keep them completely separate if that’s what’s best for the foster dog. However, if you choose to integrate, it’s best to start the process outside of the home environment, and after AT LEAST 2 weeks of decompression time. 
• It is helpful to have another person help you during the integration process - one person handling one dog is ideal. 
• If you have more than one resident dog, integrate them one at a time with the foster dog, starting with the most “balanced” of your resident pack. 
• If you’re ever feeling uncomfortable with moving to the next step, slow down or go back to the previous step until you do feel comfortable. Your dog(s) will sense your unease which will make them uncomfortable as well. 
• Anytime you are working on integration, make sure both dogs have been exercised beforehand. This will help with the calm state of mind. 

Step 1: Walks 

• Take the foster dog and resident dog(s) on a walk together. 
• At first, do not allow any interaction between the dogs. Maintain enough
  distance between them that neither dog becomes overly excited. 
• Once you get a calm state of mind from both dogs, you may begin to allow
  sniffing or minimal interactions. No nose-to-nose interactions. 
• Practice these walks as many times as you need before moving on to the
  next step. Make sure both dogs exhibit calm behavior around one another. 

Step 2: Yard 

• Allow the dogs to interact in the yard, each dragging a leash. 
• If the energy begins to ramp up, you may pick up the leashes and redirect
  the dogs. 
• Again, make sure both dogs are able to exhibit calm behavior around one
  another before moving onto the next step. 

Step 3: House 

• Allow the dogs to interact inside the house, each dragging a leash. Once both dogs are behaving calmly, you may allow interactions without leash-dragging. 
• Start with small increments of time together and allow longer periods of time together if they are staying calm. 
• Make sure to keep food, toys, and other high-value objects out of reach of the dogs when they are together in order to avoid resource guarding. 
• Make sure to supervise dog-to-dog interactions AT ALL TIMES. Never leave your foster and resident dog(s) alone together, unless one or both are crated.
• When deciding how quickly to move through the steps of integration, keep in mind the body language the dogs are exhibiting. You want relaxed, calm, or neutral body language from all dogs involved in the integration!

Lack of House-Training

• Chances are your foster animal will need at least a refresher course in house-training. Many rescued animals have spent most of their lives outside and never learned the rules of living indoors. Other animals may have once been house-trained, but may still have an accident or two when transitioning into a new home. The most important element of effective house-training is extensive supervision. Correcting an animal for eliminating in the house is only effective if the animal is caught in the act. For this reason, it is essential that the animal be under your supervision at all times.
• There will, of course, be times when you are unable to watch the animal constantly. During these times, you can confine the animal to a crate. The crate should be just large enough for the animal to be able to comfortably stand up, turn around, and lie down. Because an animal will try not to soil the area where (s)he sleeps, (s)he will usually not urinate or defecate in a crate.
• When the animal is allowed out of the crate, (s)he should be taken outside immediately. If the animal eliminates outside, give him/her lots of praise. If the animal does not eliminate, it is important that you supervise the animal closely once you re-enter your home. If you catch the animal having an accident in the house, tell the animal "NO" in a firm (but not angry) voice. Take the animal straight outside and give him/her a chance to finish eliminating outside. If the animal does eliminate, give him/her lots of praise.
• When house-training an animal, use common sense. Give the animal a chance to eliminate outside following meals and naps. Pay attention to the animal's behavioral signals. If you observe the animal circling, sniffing the floor, or moving toward the door, take the animal outside. 

House-training Don'ts

• Do not rub the animal's nose in it! This method of training has been proven ineffective by trainers and behaviorists. The only message an animal gets from this type of "training" is that you are angry. The animal will likely not learn to eliminate outside and may instead learn to fear you.
• Do not correct the animal after the fact! Again, this method of training has been proven ineffective. Punishing an animal for something (s)he did much earlier will not yield the results you are looking for. Yes, the animal will behave submissively and perhaps look guilty, but this is because the animal knows you are angry — not because (s)he knows that (s)he did something wrong earlier. 
• House-training is not a process that happens overnight. Be patient. Any progress you can make with your foster animal on house-training will make your life easier and help improve the animal's chances for successful placement.

Chewing

• Destructive chewing is a phase that all puppies go through. It usually starts around three months and can last until the dog is one year old. During this time, the dog’s adult teeth are coming in and chewing helps relieve the pain. Adult animals may also have problems with chewing, but for different reasons. Adult animals usually chew on inappropriate things because they are anxious or bored, or because they have never been taught what is appropriate to chew on.
• The best solution for destructive chewing is providing your foster animal with something that is acceptable to chew on. Have plenty of chew toys available at all times. If you catch the animal chewing on something inappropriate, tell the animal "NO" in a firm (but not angry) voice, and replace the item with something more appropriate.
• If the destructive chewing occurs when you are away, consider confining the animal to a crate. A crate will help keep both the animal and your home safe. It is also important to make sure that your foster animal is getting plenty of exercise. A tired animal will sleep, not chew!

 
Separation Anxiety

• It is pretty common for foster animals to experience some separation anxiety when left alone. The severity of the anxiety can range from pacing and whining to much more destructive behavior. A animal may experience separation anxiety simply because (s)he has a very dependent personality, or because (s)he is reacting to a history of abuse or abandonment. Whatever the reason, separation anxiety can be difficult to deal with because you are not around when it happens.
• The most common sign that an animal may be suffering from separation anxiety is destructive behavior when left alone. An animal may scratch frantically at the door or make other attempts to get out of the house, or the animal may chew on things or engage in other destructive behaviors. If you have reason to suspect that your foster animal is suffering from separation anxiety when you are away, consider confining the animal to a crate. If used appropriately, the crate will help the animal feel safe and secure and hopefully relieve some of the anxiety. Until the separation anxiety itself can be examined and dealt with, a crate will help keep both your home and your foster animal safe.
• If you do have the time to work with your foster animal, there are several things you can try to help alleviate separation anxiety. Start out by leaving the animal in your home for very short intervals. Tell the animal to wait and then walk outside for a few minutes before returning. When you return to the house, praise the animal for waiting. Begin to leave the animal for longer and longer periods of time. It is important that when you leave, you remain calm and not make a big deal out of leaving. It is also important that you not be too excited when you return. You want to praise the animal, but calmly. You don't want your return to be such an exciting event that the animal anxiously anticipates the moment of your return. Perhaps the most effective treatment for separation anxiety is time. Be patient. As your foster animal spends more time with you, (s)he will begin to feel more secure in knowing that when you leave, you always come back. 
• Some destructive behavior that appears to be related to separation anxiety may, in fact, be the product of boredom. Try providing chew toys or other play items that will entertain your foster animal while you are away. There are several products on the market that work quite well. One of the more popular toys keeps animals engaged by making them work for food or treats. Once the toy is filled with some kind of small food item, the animal must work by rolling and tipping the toy until a treat falls out. Most of these products allow you to adjust the level of difficulty, and can keep an animal entertained for significant periods of time.
•  Don't forget to make sure that your foster animal gets plenty of exercise. A tired animal is much less likely to engage in behaviors associated with anxiety or boredom.

 
NOTES ON CRATE TRAINING

A crate is a great way to keep both your foster animal and your home safe. If you decide to use a crate, make sure that the crate is always a positive place for your foster animal. Never use a crate for punishment. When introducing an animal to a crate, use a happy tone of voice and tell the animal to "kennel up." Once the animal has entered the crate, give him/her lots of praise and perhaps a treat reward. If you have a difficult time getting the animal to enter the crate or if the animal seems afraid, try leaving the crate door open and placing the animal's food and water bowls just inside the door. Allow the animal to wander into the crate and eat at her leisure. Once the animal seems more comfortable with the crate, you can try confining the animal to the crate for short intervals. Never confine a puppy to a crate for longer than 4 hours at a time or an adult animal for longer than 8 hours at a time. Remember, the animal will not want to soil his crate, so forcing the animal to stay in the crate longer than (s)he can comfortably "hold it" is inappropriate.

 
HEALTH ISSUES

Because most foster animals are rescued from shelter environments, it's difficult for rescue partners to ensure that they will always be healthy. An animal who appears healthy at the time of rescue could easily begin to show signs of illness several days later. For this reason, it is very important that foster homes keep their own animals up to date on vaccinations.

 Common Illnesses in Animals

The following information is intended to help you better understand and recognize some of the more common illnesses in animals.

Canine Distemper

Canine distemper is a viral disease that is often fatal. Distemper is most commonly seen in puppies 3-6 months old. Early signs resemble a severe cold. The vaccine for canine distemper is considered very effective as a preventative measure.

Signs & Symptoms: Eye congestion and discharge, loss of appetite, vomiting, weight loss, nasal discharge, and diarrhea

Treatment: Veterinary care including fluid therapy and antibiotics to treat the symptoms as there is no cure for distemper. 

Transmission: Very contagious

 
Ringworm

Ringworm is a fungus related to athlete's foot; it's not actually a worm.

Signs & Symptoms: Irregularly shaped areas of fur loss; the skin of the areas will usually appear rough and scaly

Treatment: Veterinary care, including an injection and/or topical treatment

Transmission: Very contagious to other animals, cats and people, but usually requires direct contact with the infected animal

 
Fleas

Fleas are tiny insects that feed on the blood of animals, cats, humans, and other animals. Although each flea only consumes a small drop of blood, fleas usually attack in large numbers.

Signs & Symptoms: Intense itching and scratching

Treatment: Veterinary care, including an injection and/or topical treatment

Transmission: Very contagious to other animals, cats and, people

 
Round, Tape, and Hook Worms

Worms affect an animal's digestive system. They are most commonly seen in puppies and young animals.

Signs & Symptoms: Large belly, diarrhea, and an inability to gain weight

Treatment: Veterinary care, including de-worming medication

Transmission: Contagious to other animals and cats, but only through contact with (and subsequent ingestion of) feces

 
Cleaning Procedures

It is important that all items and areas used by a sick foster animal be cleaned thoroughly. You can use a 10% bleach solution to reliably kill most viruses and bacteria. Items to be cleaned should be thoroughly wetted with the bleach solution and allowed to stand for several minutes before rinsing. Foster homes that have recently fostered an animal or puppy with parvo or another extremely contagious disease may be asked to wait several months before fostering another unvaccinated animal or puppy.

 
Routine Veterinary Care

We will provide foster animals with routine veterinary care prior to placement in permanent adoptive homes. The following schedule outlines the various types of routine care provided. Again, this will vary with each group, so please consult their individual guidelines.

MARKETING FOR ADOPTION

Our ultimate goal is to find each and every dog a loving forever home. You can help us make that happen by helping us market them for adoption. 

• Social media is a wonderful tool - Facebook, Instagram, NextDoor, and other networking sites are great places to share photos, videos, and stories about your foster dog. 
• When sharing photos, tag @heartofinfinityrescue on Instagram, and you may see us reshare your posts if the post settings are “public.” 

Please help write a bio for your foster dog.We will use this to create your foster dog’s online profile. We will probably change the wording you include in your “bio,” but don’t get offended! Just like dogs live in the moment, we don’t focus on the dog’s past but rather all the wonderful things we know about them now, so please share the cute, quirky traits that adopters love to hear about. The more information you can include in the description section, the better! 

• We love to show off your foster dog doing cute things! If they make funny noises for treats, love to play tug, or are a champion napper, try to show our online audience what you love most about your foster dog. 
• We will do a short Q&A with you to help our online audience learn more about your foster dog. Be ready to share about their personality, likes/dislikes, behavior challenges, and training progress.

Be prepared to hold individual meetings for your foster dog and interested adopters. 

• We will send you the contact information for the interested adopter and ask you to reach out to set up a virtual meeting. We will provide you with our Meet and Greet Guide for more detailed instructions on best practices for meet and greets. 
• We will not send more than 3 applications at a time, in order to avoid overwhelming you. 
• To keep everyone safe, we can narrow down the list from multiple applicants to one applicant for an in-person meeting. 
• The location for an in-person meeting depends on your foster dog and their personality. We want them to be able to be shown in their best light. This could be in your backyard, at a local park (NOT a dog park), or another neutral location.

*Information compiled from ®Little Love Animal Rescue*