Bats

Bats are an incredible part of our ecosystem! However, because they test positive for rabies more frequently than other animals in San Diego County, it’s important to use caution when handling. To protect yourself and the bat, do not touch the bat with your bare hands or allow any pets to come into contact with them. Please call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for personalized guidance and next steps. 
 
--- 
 
If you, another person or a pet has had confirmed or suspected contact with a bat, contact your healthcare provider or veterinarian immediately. Click here for more information about the rabies virus and risk factors to consider.

Bear, bobcat, coyote, fox or mountain lion

Unless they are very young, large animals such as bears, bobcats, coyotes, foxes and mountain lions are fast and strong. While they prefer to run away from humans if they can, they will use their sharp teeth and claws to scratch and bite if they feel threatened or if they are restrained.  
 
Because these animals pose a safety risk to people and pets, please call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 or California Department of Fish & Wildlife (CDFW) at 858-467-4201 for assistance and guidance. 

If you have a concern about an animal who is not injured, please use the information below: 

• Visit CDFW’s Human-Wildlife Conflicts page. 
• Search our website for answers to common questions. 
• Email us at info@sdhumane.org (for non-urgent matters only). 
• Call us at 619-299-7012 (for urgent wildlife matters not covered by this self-help form). 

Deer

For the first few weeks of a baby deer’s life, the doe (mother) will allow the baby to nap in a safe spot while she stays close by. Unless a fawn (baby deer) has obvious injuries, is walking around crying or is found next to a deceased doe, the baby should never be moved.  
 
If the fawn is visibly injured, you can confirm that the doe is deceased or you've already removed the fawn, please call San Diego Fawn Rescue at 858-603-0170 for further assistance.
 
If the deer is a sick or injured adult, please keep a safe distance from the deer and call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for personalized guidance. Deer are very strong, with sharp hooves and, in some cases, antlers. While they prefer to run away from humans if they can, they will kick or use their antlers as defense if they feel trapped or threatened. 

Marine Mammal

Marine mammals are federally protected under the Marine Mammal Protection Act, so touching, moving, feeding or harassing them is illegal. Never approach or capture marine mammals, even if they appear sick or injured.  
 
If you believe a marine mammal needs help, please contact SeaWorld Rescue at 800-541-SEAL (7325), as Project Wildlife is not able to rescue or rehabilitate marine mammals. 
 
PLEASE NOTE: 
 
Seals and sea lions leave their babies (pups) on the shore while they search for food.  As the pups grow, the parents may leave them alone for longer periods of time. Once the pup is strong enough, they will accompany their mother on short swims and return to shore for rest. If seeing a pup alone is your only concern, then no action, monitoring or follow-up is needed.   
 
Seals may abandon their young if people, dogs and other perceived threats remain too close to their baby. In accordance with federal law, people must maintain a 100-yard distance from marine mammals at all times. If people or off-leash dogs are harassing wildlife, please report them to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Office of Law Enforcement at 800-853-1964. 

Sometimes domestic (pet) rabbits, mice and rats are found in the wild because they have escaped their enclosures or have been abandoned. There are a few ways to tell if the animal you found is wild or domestic. Domestic species are more likely to have different colored or patterned fur, be all white or have large white patches. Wild species will typically be one solid color, like brown or grey. Pets are also typically larger than wild rabbits, mice and rats.  
 

 
If you need help with a domestic rabbit or other small pet, please follow this link to the Lost and Found Pets page for further assistance.  
 
Project Wildlife does not treat domestic animals. If you arrive with a domestic rabbit, mouse or rat, we will ask you to take the animal to Admissions at one of our San Diego Humane Society campuses.  

If you are unsure whether the rabbit or small pet you found is domestic or wild, please call San Diego Humane Society at 619-299-7012 for guidance.  

Orphaned (healthy)  

All young animals are left alone for periods of time while the parents look for food and because the parents want to avoid attracting other animals to the den or nest. If you find a baby animal without parents, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the baby has been abandoned or orphaned. 
 
Many animals have multiple dens or nest sites in case the original location is disrupted or damaged, so we should always give mom time to find and move her babies.  
 
If the animal appears healthy and the mother was not found deceased, download step-by-step instructions for renesting, reuniting or confirming the animal is orphaned by clicking the correct species below: 

• Deer
• Desert Cottontail
• Fox Squirrel 
• Raccoon
• Skunk

If you can confirm that the animal has been orphaned (because you have found the deceased parent) or if the species you’ve found is not listed above, we recommend immediately bringing this animal to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required and the animal is old enough to thrive on their own, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found them.  
 
We rely on members of the public to capture and deliver wildlife to our rehabilitation centers to ensure our limited resources are reserved for true emergencies. Thank you for helping by transporting this orphan to us!  
 
Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Deceased

If the animal is not stiff or obviously deceased, please confirm they are no longer alive before acting. Closely watch the animal’s chest for two minutes to check for breathing. If you don’t see any breaths, the animal is likely deceased. If you still aren’t sure, leave the animal for a short period and check again for any movement.  

Deceased wildlife on private property:  

• You can leave the animal in place and eventually they will either naturally decompose or provide food for another animal.  
• If you would like to remove the animal from the property, the property owner is responsible for coordinating removal. Refer to your local city, county or waste management department for further guidance or information. If you handle the deceased animal, be sure to wear gloves or use a shovel or other object to move them.

Deceased wildlife on public property or roadways:  

• Unless it is causing a public safety issue, leave the animal in place.  
• To request the removal of a dead animal from public property in the City of San Diego, use the City's "Get it Done" app or call Environmental Services at (858) 694-7000. For cities other than San Diego, refer to your city’s official web page for further guidance. 
• The removal of dead animals from county-maintained roads or facilities is a service provided by Singh Group. They can be reached by calling 760-539-0012.  
• The removal of dead animals on freeways is handled by the California Department of Transportation (Caltrans). They can be reached by calling 619-688-6699.  

In most cases, you cannot legally keep deceased wildlife, but there are special permits and exceptions. If desired, you can report the dead animal to the California Department of Fish & Wildlife.  

Other injury or concern not listed 

If you’ve contained an obviously injured animal, please bring them to Project Wildlife as soon as possible for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. 
 
If you have not yet contained the animal and they are obviously injured, continue to the next page for safe capture and containment instructions. 
 
If your concern was not previously listed, your situation may be too specific or uncommon to cover in a self-help form, or you accidentally chose the wrong answer to a previous question. Do not bring the animal to Project Wildlife before receiving more personalized assistance. 
 
Get help in one of the following ways: 

• Search our website. 
• Email us at info@sdhumane.org (for non-urgent matters only). 
• Call us at 619-299-7012 (for urgent wildlife matters not covered by this self-help form). 

Caught by cat or dog 

We recommend bringing the animal to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found them.  
 
If an animal was caught by a cat, they likely have small wounds due to the size of cat teeth and claws. If an animal was caught by a dog, there may be crushing and shaking injuries due to how dogs typically handle their prey. These injuries can include internal bleeding or spinal cord injuries.  
 
To prevent future injuries and protect your pet: 

• Keep pet cats indoors or in a secure outdoor enclosure (such as a catio).  
• Keep dogs on a leash or check your yard regularly for wildlife before letting them out.   
  
  

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Caught by another animal 

We do not recommend interrupting attacks or fights between wild animals. This is a normal, important part of nature that should not be stopped by humans. When humans interrupt this process, the attacked animal is often too badly injured to save and the hunting animal misses a meal opportunity, forcing them to catch and kill another animal.  
 
If you already intervened (or the conflict ended naturally), we recommend you bring the injured animal to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found them.  
 

Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Caught in material  

If the animal is caught or tangled in material (such as netting, fishing wire, etc.), do not attempt to cut the material off the animal, as this will increase their stress and may put your safety at risk. For potentially dangerous animals (large animals, rodents), place a box or storage container over them before cutting the material free. Follow the safe capture information on subsequent pages at this point.
 
If the animal is moving freely but clearly has material around their body, follow the safe capture guidelines on the next page.   
 
If there is fishing line coming from the animal’s mouth, do not cut it off.  We may be able to use this line to remove swallowed hooks. 
 
We recommend bringing the animal caught in material to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found them.  
 
Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Stuck or trapped

Trapped in solid object
 
When freeing a trapped animal, be mindful of your safety.  Do not place your hands or body in reach of animals who bite. If possible, use materials or tools like sticks or a grabber to safely help the animal. 
 
Fence: Animals usually get stuck at their hips, so you can try to gently push or pull the animal to free them. You can also attempt to bend the bars or wires of a fence to increase the gap, allowing the animal to pass through. Lastly, you can cut the animal free, but make sure to cut in such a way that they will not have pieces of the fence stuck on them. Consider changing your fencing materials to prevent future issues. 
 
Dumpster: If the animal is in the bottom of an empty dumpster, add a branch or secure a sheet to the side for them to climb out. For animals who can’t climb, you can use a shovel to scoop them up and raise them to the top. If the animal is stuck through a rusty portion of the side of the dumpster and you’re unable to safely push or pull the animal free, call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for further assistance. 
 
Birdfeeder: Cut, bend or break the feeder to free the animal. If you cannot free the animal safely, bring the whole feeder with the animal still inside to Project Wildlife as soon as possible. We recommend disposing of the feeder and replacing it with a safer option. 
 
Snap Trap: If you can safely remove the trap without allowing the animal to escape, please do so. If you do not feel confident that you can safely remove the animal without causing further injury or escape, bring the animal and trap immediately to Project Wildlife. Because these traps can be harmful or fatal to so many animals, we strongly recommend not using these traps. 
 
Glue Trap or Fly Paper: Cover the remaining exposed glue or adhesive with dirt, leaves, grass, paper, etc. to prevent the animal from becoming more stuck. Do not use oil, soap or otherwise attempt to remove the animal from the glue paper, and do not bathe the animal. To prevent unintentional harm to animals, we strongly recommend that community members do not use these types of traps on their property. If you or your neighbors are having trouble with rodents in your home, please see more information about humane rodent removal and prevention at this link. 
 
Chimney: Help animals escape on their own by dropping a knotted rope or sheet down through the top with a heavy weight or object tied to the bottom, then leave the area and give the animal a chance to climb out. You can also let the animal down into the fireplace and then follow the directions listed below for “House.” Installing a chimney cap will help prevent future issues. 
 
Pool (empty or full): Find an object (such as a branch, log, piece of wood, chair, etc.) that the animal can use as a ramp or stairs to exit. Alternatively, use a shovel or broom to boost the animal to the edge of the pool. To prevent future issues, securely cover the pool when it’s not in use, install stairs or use a FrogLog ramp. 
 
House: Guide the animal to the exit by closing as many inside doors as possible and then opening as many exit doors and windows as possible. Turn off indoor lights so that light is only shining in the open doors and windows. If the natural light isn’t bright enough, you can also shine lights toward/through the exits to help direct the animal. Most animals will leave quickly. To prevent future issues, we recommend keeping doors shut (or installing screen doors), patching holes and using screens on windows.  
If the animal is trapped in a location that isn’t listed above, please call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for more personalized guidance. 
 
In most cases, the goal is to free the animal and allow them to move away on their own (unless specifically stated otherwise). Depending on how long they were trapped, they may be weak or have visible wounds.  We recommend bringing animals who are clearly injured or weak to Project Wildlife for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found them.  
 
Click NEXT (>) for safe capture and drop-off information.

Nocturnal animal out during the day  

While some animals are mostly active during the night or dawn and dusk, seeing them during the day is not cause for concern. Sometimes, animals who would prefer to be active at night are forced to spend more time looking for food during daylight hours, especially while raising young or during periods of harsh weather. If the animal appears healthy, no action is required — simply leave the area and let them go about their business. If the animal appears injured or ill, please restart this form and select “Injured/Ill” from the list of concerns. 

Found or nesting in unwanted or unnatural location  

Trapping, relocating and killing animals is ineffective, inhumane and illegal without a permit. These solutions only work in the short term, as new animals will re-enter the space left behind by the animal who was removed. Relocation removes an animal from their natural habitat and territory and drops them into an unfamiliar one. In this new location, the animal will struggle to find food, shelter and often fight with other resident animals. You also risk introducing new species and diseases into the area. 
Because wild animals are our neighbors, please try to be tolerant and compassionate when approaching this situation. We know this can be frustrating, but animals are just doing their best to survive and adapt to their ever-changing environment. 
 
Follow the instructions for the situation that fits best. 
 
Entered a house, building or indoor space: You can help them find the exit by turning off all the lights inside and then opening as many doors and windows as possible to allow for escape. You can shine a light through escape routes (if natural light is not enough) and most animals find the exit. For slower moving animals, you can use a broom to encourage them toward the exit while maintaining a safe distance. Do not corner animals as this makes them feel trapped, and they are more likely to become aggressive. 
 
Living, sleeping, nesting or raising young in indoor space: If the animal has not been there long, there is a chance they will just move along on their own. If they do not leave naturally, you can encourage them to do so by removing things they might be interested in (including food, water or shelter) and blocking them from getting to the space in question. When babies are present, we recommend waiting until after they leave to prevent their parent from abandoning them.  
 
Living or sleeping in outdoor space (no babies involved): If the animal has not been there long, there is a chance they will just move along on their own. If they do not leave naturally, you can encourage them to do so by removing things they might be interested in (including food, water and shelter), using humane deterrents like motion activated sprinklers, or using a humane hazing technique.  
 
Nesting or raising young in outdoor space: If the animal is still in the nesting phase, but hasn’t actually given birth yet, you can remove the nest and follow the recommendations above to discourage future attempts. Once the young are born, we ask that you do not remove the young or their mother unless the situation is unsafe for you and your pets. Most animals mature quickly and will leave the area in less than a month. Please keep pets and people away from the area in the meantime. 
 
--- 
 
If your attempts to encourage an animal to leave your property using the methods above are unsuccessful, please contact Project Wildlife for further guidance at 619-299-7012. Do not use poison, glue traps or snap traps. In addition to being inhumane or illegal for the intended animal, they often kill other animals unintentionally. Every year, we take in hundreds of birds, mammals and reptiles who were accidentally caught in traps or poisoned. 

Damaging property or eating undesirable items 

Trapping, relocating and killing animals is ineffective, inhumane and illegal without a permit. These solutions only work in the short term, as new animals will re-enter the space left behind by the animal who was removed. Relocation removes an animal from their natural habitat and territory and drops them into an unfamiliar one. In this new location, the animal will struggle to find food, shelter and often fight with other resident animals. You also risk introducing new species and diseases into the area. 
 
Because wild animals are our neighbors, please try to be tolerant and compassionate when approaching this situation. We know this can be frustrating, but animals are just doing their best to survive and adapt to their ever-changing environment. Please do not use poison, glue traps or snap traps. In addition to being inhumane and/or illegal for the intended animal, they often kill other animals unintentionally. Every year, we take in hundreds of birds, mammals and reptiles who were accidentally caught in traps or poisoned. 
 
You can prevent animals from eating undesirable items or destroying property by blocking their access to the items or the property and removing things they might be interested in (including food, water and shelter).  You can use fencing or netting to block animals from entering entire areas, individual plants or garden beds. Whenever using netting, make sure the net is easily visible (brightly colored or flagged) and tight to prevent animals from getting caught. For digging or burrowing animals, underground barriers are also required. 
 
Other humane solutions to consider are: 

• Completely remove attractive food sources from the area. 
• Place taste and scent deterrents, like mint or cinnamon, on food items. 
• Switch to animal resistant landscaping or hardier plants. 
• Use humane scare tactics that make noise or look scary to animals (things that move in the wind, motion-activated devices). 

When parents or young animals are involved, we recommend waiting until babies have grown up to avoid accidentally separating the parent from their young or causing abandonment. 

Approaching people and/or pets  

Animals may approach people and pets for reasons that do not require intervention unless the situation is dangerous or problematic. In fact, some animals (skunks, for example) have poor vision and may not be able to see you or your pet in their path! Choose the most likely reason for the behavior and follow the instructions below: 

• The animal is young and cannot identify or avoid threats. Give the animal space and keep pets leashed or in another area until the animal leaves or matures. 
• The animal is young, possibly orphaned and desperate. Young animals who are hungry may wander up to anything that moves in an act of desperation. If you suspect this is the case, go back and select “Orphaned” from the concern list for further instructions. 
• The animal was raised and released by a person illegally. When people without a permit raise wild animals, they often raise the animal more like a pet than a wild animal. This results in an animal who is very used to people or seeks out the company of people. Sometimes, as the animal gets older, these interactions become dangerous and aggressive. Call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for more tailored guidance. 
• The animal is being fed by people and now sees them as an easy food source. Animals may come to rely on or expect food from humans. Over time, they become bolder and will get closer to people. To help prevent these interactions, which can become unsafe for both animals and humans, we do not recommend feeding wildlife. Secure all food sources (pet food, garbage, etc.), stop providing intentional hand-outs and discuss issues with neighbors as they may also be contributing to the problem. If necessary, implement a humane hazing technique to scare animals and encourage them to move on. 
• The animal is suffering from a disease, injury or blindness. Animals who fall into this category are usually easy to identify. They often have difficulty moving, bump into things or are visibly unwell or injured. We recommend bringing these animals to Project Wildlife as soon as possible for evaluation and potential rehabilitation. Go back and select “Injured/ill” from the concern list for further instructions. 
  
  

--- 
 
For the safety of people and animals alike, we do not recommend encouraging or teaching wild animals to approach people or pets. A healthy fear of humans and pets is essential to a wild animal’s survival. 

Capture and Containment – Raccoons, skunks, weasels 

Raccoons, skunks and weasels can carry the rabies virus. These animals are considered rabies vector species. It is important to use caution when capturing these animals to avoid being bitten and allowing contact between them and your pets. If you or another person has been bitten, or your pet was in contact with a rabies vector species, contact your healthcare provider or veterinarian immediately. 
 
For any adult raccoon, skunk, or weasel, we recommend calling Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for further assistance. 
 
For young or baby raccoons, skunks, or weasels, follow the instructions below, however, if you have any concern about being able to safely capture or contain an animal, call Project Wildlife at 619-299-7012 for further assistance. 
 
Wear thick safety gloves (gardening or leather) and wash your hands after handling wildlife. Handle these animals from above and avoid placing hands or fingers near their mouth. Young animals with their eyes still closed are unlikely to bite but may still have teeth and be capable of biting. Once their eyes are open, young raccoons, skunks and weasels may growl, lunge or bite when restrained. Young and adult skunks will also spray if approached, but often give warnings (such as stomping their feet) prior to spraying. Avoid startling a skunk and avoid their rear end to reduce the chance of being sprayed. For skunks and adult raccoons, passive containment (described at the bottom of this section) is the safest option. 
 
Animals who are able to move freely:  
 
If an animal is still able to move freely, they will likely try to run away from humans. 
 

1. From a distance, identify where the animal may be able to escape (water, thick plant cover, etc.) and areas where you may be able to contain the animal (fence lines, garage, dog crate, etc.). 
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to create a barrier. If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out. We recommend using a tarp, shower curtain or other waterproof barrier if you choose to contain a skunk. 
3. Stand between the animal and the escape routes you identified. You may need multiple people to surround the animal entirely to block all escape routes. 
4. Slowly move toward the animal, guiding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.  In some cases, you can guide the animal directly into a box, carrier or crate for transport. 
5. Once within reach, follow the directions for immobile animals below. 

 
Animals who are sick, injured, very young or otherwise unable to move freely (immobile): 
These animals are unable to run away from humans. They likely feel trapped and vulnerable, which makes aggression more likely.  

1. Cover the animal, including their head, with a dark and/or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, coat, etc.). This will help reduce stress and make them easier to catch.  
2. Restrain the animal by picking them up over their back with one hand over their shoulders and the other hand over their hips. 
3. Place the animal into a container (cardboard box, plastic storage container, etc.) with a lid and air holes. Do not provide food or water and once they are in the container, leave them alone. Keep the container in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets. 

--- 
 
If you are not comfortable picking up the animal, you can use a passive containment method: 
 
Box and Top 

1. Cover the animal with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes. 
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box with the animal inside and the ground. 
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords. Alternatively, you can slowly flip the box and flat object so the bottom becomes the top before securing the flat object in place.  

 
--- 
 
Click NEXT (>) for drop-off information. If you are unable to safely capture or contain the animal, proceed to the next page to contact Project Wildlife for assistance.

Capture and Containment Rabbits and Hares 

All rabbits and hares (including pets) can become ill from Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus type 2 (RHDV2), a disease first diagnosed in California in 2020. The disease often causes severe illness or death and can be spread directly from infected rabbits or hares; indirectly through bedding, food, droppings, etc.; and through insects or other animals. This disease cannot spread to humans or other non-rabbit pets.  
 
Items that come into contact with wild rabbits (e.g., towels, sheets, clothes and other objects used to contain the animal) should be thrown away or washed immediately after use. 
 
If you have any pet rabbits, please do not bring wild rabbits or hares near them. If you come into contact with a wild rabbit or hare, change clothes and shower before interacting with pet rabbits. 
 
Wear gloves (latex or gardening) and wash your hands after handling wildlife. Rabbits and hares are not aggressive but will kick and thrash when restrained or feel threatened. They have powerful back legs which can cause scratches, so handle them from above and avoid placing your hands or arms below or behind their back legs. It is important that you hold rabbits and hares securely, as they can further injure themselves attempting to flee or jump from loose handling. 
 
Animals who are able to move freely (mobile):  
 
If an animal is still able to move freely, they will likely try to run away from humans. Mobile rabbits and hares will be especially stressed. Move slowly but deliberately to reduce multiple capture attempts and prevent further injury. 

1. From a distance, identify where the animal may be able to escape (water, thick plant cover, etc.) and areas where you may be able to contain the animal (fence lines, garage, dog crate, etc.). 
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to create a barrier. If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out. 
3. Stand between the animal and the escape routes you identified. You may need multiple people to surround the animal entirely to block all escape routes. 
4. Slowly move toward the animal, guiding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.  In some cases, you can guide the animal directly into a box, carrier or crate for transport. 
5. Once within reach, follow the directions for immobile animals below. 

Animals who are sick, injured, very young or otherwise unable to move freely (immobile): 
 
These animals are unable to run away from humans. They likely feel trapped and vulnerable, which makes aggression more likely.  

1. Cover the animal, including their head, with a dark and/or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, coat, etc.). This will help reduce stress and make them easier to catch. 
2. Restrain the animal by picking them up over their back. For adults, place one hand over their shoulders and the other over their hips. If the piece of fabric is large enough, scoop the fabric behind their bottom/under their back legs, tucking the back legs into their stomach. This will help to ensure the rabbit or hare can’t kick out and cause injury to you or themselves.  
3. Scoop the securely tucked rabbit or hare and place them into a container (cardboard box, storage container, etc.) with a lid and air holes. Do not provide food or water once they are in the container, leave them alone. Keep the container in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets. 

--- 
 
If you are not comfortable picking up the animal, you can use a passive containment method: 
 
Box and Top 

1. Cover the animal with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes. 
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box with the animal inside and the ground. 
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords. Alternatively, you can slowly flip the box and flat object so the bottom becomes the top before securing the flat object in place. 

 
--- 
 
Click NEXT (>) for drop-off information. If you are unable to safely capture or contain the animal, proceed to the next page to contact Project Wildlife for assistance. 
 

Capture and Containment - All other mammals 

Wear gloves (latex, gardening, or leather) and wash your hands after handling wildlife. Young mammals, smaller than the size of your fist, may bite but typically have very small teeth. Leather gloves or a heavy towel will often be sufficient to protect you from injury.  

Larger mammals will not hesitate to bite if they are restrained. Handle larger or adult mammals from above and avoid placing your hands or fingers near their mouth. Juvenile and adult squirrels have very strong teeth and are capable of a hard bite. For juvenile and adult mammals, passive containment (described below) is the safest option. 
 
Animals who are able to move freely:  
 
If an animal is still able to move freely, they will likely try to run away from humans. 

1. From a distance, identify where the animal may be able to escape (water, thick plant cover, etc.) and areas where you may be able to contain the animal (fence lines, garage, dog crate, etc.). 
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to create a barrier. If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out. 
3. Stand between the animal and the escape routes you identified. You may need multiple people to surround the animal entirely to block all escape routes. 
4. Slowly move toward the animal, guiding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.  In some cases, you can guide the animal directly into a box, carrier or crate for transport. 
5. Once within reach, follow the directions for immobile animals below. 

Animals who are sick, injured, very young or otherwise unable to move freely (immobile): 
 
These animals are unable to run away from humans. They likely feel trapped and vulnerable, which makes aggression more likely.   

1. Cover the animal, including their head, with a dark and/or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, coat, etc.). This will help reduce stress and make them easier to catch. 
2. Restrain the animal by picking them up over their back with a hand over their shoulders and their middle back. For adults or larger juveniles, place one hand over each shoulder directly behind their head to lift them. 
3. Place the animal into a container (cardboard box, plastic storage container, etc.) with a lid and air holes. Do not provide food or water and once they are in the container, leave them alone. Keep the container in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets. 

--- 
 
If you are not comfortable picking up the animal, you can use a passive containment method: 
 
Box and Top 

1. Cover the animal with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes. 
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box with the animal inside and the ground. 
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords.  Alternatively, you can slowly flip the box and flat object so the bottom becomes the top before securing the flat object in place. 

--- 
 
Click NEXT (>) for drop-off information. If you are unable to safely capture or contain the animal, proceed to the next page to contact Project Wildlife for assistance.
 

Project Wildlife contact and drop-off information 

San Diego Humane Society's Project Wildlife program is open seven days a week, except major holidays.   

• If we are open, head to Project Wildlife at the Pilar & Chuck Bahde Wildlife Center (open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.) located at 5433 Gaines St., San Diego, CA 92110 or our Ramona Wildlife Center (open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.) at 18740 Highland Valley Road, Ramona, CA 92065 to drop off the animal.  
• If we are closed, please wait until we open to drop off the animal. Keep the container in a warm, dark and quiet location away from people and pets. Provide additional heat, such as a heating pad set to “low” under half of container, if location is cooler than room temperature. Do not give the animal food, water or medicine.
  • Please do not panic if you must wait overnight to bring the animal to Project Wildlife. Only in very rare cases is waiting overnight the difference between life and death. Leave the animal alone and try not to check on them frequently, as this often results in accidental escape and increased stress.  
  • Members of the public can only legally keep wildlife contained for 48 hours with the intent of bringing them to a rehabilitator. Keeping wildlife for a longer period of time is illegal and inhumane, and animals who receive care sooner have a better chance for survival.  
  • If you cannot safely keep the animal overnight, call San Diego Humane Society’s Humane Law Enforcement at 619-299-7012 option 1 for further assistance. 

Thank you for your compassion for wildlife!

Each year, with support from friends like you, our Project Wildlife program cares for more than 10,000 injured, orphaned and ill wild animals.

To make a donation to support our lifesaving work, visit sdhumane.org/helphub.

If you have any questions or need further support, please contact us at 619-299-7012.

Special thank you to our friends at PAWS for this Wildlife Help Hub concept!