Shovel: We use a fire shovel for trail work rather than a standard garden shovel. Its sharpened blade attaches to the handle at an angle, reducing the need for excessive bending. This design not only makes it easier to cut through small roots but also improves efficiency when scooping and tossing dirt. However, if the shovel is used for prying, the handle may break.
Grub Hoe: This tool is commonly used on the trail tread, where it excels at loosening soil and scraping away organic material. Its blunt blade isn’t suited for cutting through thick roots, though it can handle smaller ones. While it can tolerate some light prying, it isn’t as robust as other tools. Overall, the grub hoe is an invaluable asset when constructing new trails.
Green Grubber: The green grubber is akin to the grub hoe but features a broader, sharper, and curved blade. It excels at chopping through small roots and efficiently moving a large volume of loose material in a single stroke. However, it isn’t designed for prying. If you need to break through a dense tangle of organic material, roots, and sticks, this tool is an excellent choice.
Pulaski: This legendary trail tool, named after the heroic forest ranger who invented it, remains a favorite among wildland firefighters and trail workers today. With an axe head on one side and an adze on the other, it clears obstacles quickly—the adze efficiently digs and scrapes at dirt and rocks, while the axe chops through any obstructing roots.
McLeod: The McLeod excels at clearing drains and putting the finishing touches on a trail tread. One side features six robust tines that work like a rake, while the other side has a straight blade designed to chop small roots or scrape away dirt and organic material. Its ability to tamp down loose soil on a newly built trail is unmatched. As a heavier tool, it is not suited for prying.
Hand Saw: The small hand saw is designed to cut through medium-sized roots, branches, and small trees, working exclusively on the pull stroke. When cutting roots, ensure that any dirt or rocks are cleared from the area to prevent dulling the blade. Because it is extremely sharp, handle it with extra caution and always store it in its sheath when not in use.
Loppers: Loppers are designed for trimming small branches and roots. They’re essential for clearing brush that encroaches on a trail corridor, but they have their limitations—anything larger than about an inch in diameter is better handled with a hand saw.
Cross Cut: This tool is steeped in lore for good reason. Its long blade, featuring handles at both ends, requires two operators working in perfect sync. It’s particularly valuable for clearing fallen trees from trails in areas where chainsaws are either prohibited or impractical. For safety, a crosscut saw should only be used by a certified sawyer or under their direct supervision.
Rock Bar: The rock bar is a heavy, solid metal tool featuring a large spike, primarily used for prying or leveraging sizable objects such as rocks or logs. Its robust construction makes it extremely strong, though it also ranks among the heaviest trail tools. Additionally, its slender design allows it to reach tight spaces, making it ideal for breaking up soil around stumps or large rocks.
Pick Mattock: With a pick on one side and a mattock on the other, this heavy-duty tool is great at breaking up stubborn soil and prying. It can withstand some of the hardest tasks and weighs in as one of the heaviest trail tools as a result. Reach for this tool when you encounter hard-packed rocky soil, and you’ll get through it in no time.
Sledgehammer: The sledgehammer is indispensable during construction projects. It's commonly used to drive rebar into bridges and other structures, essentially functioning as a massive hammer delivering powerful blows. There are two types: the single jack, which is a lighter version that can be used with one hand, and the double jack, which has a heavier head and longer handle that requires two-handed operation.