• Dyotics Henna

    Colour theory and general knowledge by Jessica Saysell

  • The Kit Includes:
    6 x Dyotic Henna henna shades – Honey, Taupe, Hazelnut, Natural Brown, Ash Brown, and Raven.
    1 x Dyotics Skin Prep Lotion.
    1 x Dyotics Tint Remover.
    1 x Double Ended Angled Brush.
    1 x Dyotics White Mapping Thread.

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  • Shades

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  • Honey

    Honey is suitable for your blonde/warm blonde clients. When using blonde I always explain to my clients that the hairs tend to go darker more of a dark brown so PLEASE make sure they are aware of this. The skin stain is a nice warm blonde but it does take the hairs slightly darker. If its your first time, always remove and check the colour process to avoid making the brows to dark for clients who want a natural look.

     

    Taupe

    Taupe is my favourite and most used colour this is perfect for clients who want more of a mousy brow/dark blonde. I mix this colour with honey using 80% honey 20% taupe if I want to take the clients to have a more natural skin stain, sometimes blonde can leave a warm skin stain and adding a touch of taupe balances it out.

     

    Hazelnut

    Hazelnut the newest colour to join the collection. Hazelnut is perfect for your warm haired clients. You can also add this colour to any of the other colours if you want to add more warmth.

     

     

    Natural Brown

    Natural brown this colour is prefect for your brunette clients or your dark blondes who want a darker brow. This colour I tend to blend natural brown with ash brown, 80% natural brown and 20% ash brown to take the shade just a touch darker.

     

    Ash Brown

    Ash brown is suitable for clients with dark brown hair.

     

     

    Raven

    Raven the darkest colour of the range. This colour I use for clients who want a bold brow but very rarely use it as a stand alone colour I mix 80% ash brown and 10% raven. Raven is also the colour to use for patch testing.

  • If you ever struggle choosing a colour Dyotics have this handy colour chart. I always tend to work with the main colour in my clients hair.

    Visit Dyotics Instagram page and you will find posts like the colour chart. You will be able to save these and refer to them in the future.

    https://www.instagram.com/dyotics/

     

  • Patch Test

    ALWAYS perform a patch test with Raven as this has the highest level of PPD.

    Prepare the henna and water mix together and apply a small dot to the inside of the elbow.

    Leave on for 15 to 20 minutes, remove with a cotton pad and water. If a reaction occurs in the meantime, rinse immediately and wash the area with soap and water. Recommend your client to see a GP or pharmacist.

    If there is no sign of a reaction within 48 hours, such as redness, burning or itching, the henna treatment can go ahead.

    Please note: An allergy test/patch test is no guarantee against a reaction it is important to let your clients know that a reaction can still present itself.

    WAVER FORMS never get your client to sign a waver form if they have not had a patch test. If your product guidelines state you must perform a patch test in a time frame you MUST follows these. Waver forms will not stand in court nor will you be covered by your insurance as you have not followed the correct guidelines. These are in place for your clients safety and to protect you from any wrong doing.

  • What is PPD?

    Paraphenylenediamine—more commonly known as PPD—is a chemical substance that is commonly found in permanent hair colour and other dyes. PPD in hair colour is most often used in dark shades; hair colour companies use PPD pervasively because it provides long-lasting hair colour that has a natural look. PPD hair dye is used in both salon and at-home colour because it is an effective ingredient in colouring dark hair.

    https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/hair-dye-reactions/


    Visit the link above

     

     

  • Unwanted Tones?

    Pure henna is green, so if you start your application too soon without letting the mixture set long enough, you may see a somewhat green glow!

    To avoid this happening, mix the henna with luke warm water and wait 5-10 minutes before you start your application to ensure that the mixture is well developed and has a nice brown colour. Later on you will see some TOP TIPS to help with your mixture.

  • Henna Expiary

    When henna is exposed to oxygen, the powder slowly becomes darker over time in a process called oxidization. So the longer the jar is open, the darker the colour of the brow henna becomes. Pictured are the exact same colour just at different stages.

    1. NEW-When your Henna is fresh and just opened it should be this pale grey like tone. This will give an intense skin stain. Lasting up to 2 weeks and 6 on hairs.

    2. 9 MONTHS OLD-When your Henna turns to this dark grey colour it's now come to its end of life and should no longer be used. It will have a weak skin stain. Your skin stain may last a few days if that and about 2 weeks on the hairs.

    3. 14 MONTHS OLD-This Henna should not be used its turned black and will have zero effect on the skin or hairs.Over time, Henna will lose its dyeing power and be unable to create a henna stain.

     

  • Application and Prep Tips

    Prep spray and Remover

    In your kit you will have a prep spray and stain remover.

    Your prep spray will help prep the skin ready for application and give maximum results and a great skin grab. Clients who have alot of make up on use a brow shampoo prior to spray.

    Your remover will helo get rid of any excess skin stain. This will not remove the dye of the hairs only the skin. You can soften the stain and make an ombre effect with the remover.

    Prep

    Mix 1 scoop of henna powder, with 12 to 15 drops of luke warm water as this works best.

    You want your henna consistency to be not to thin not to thick.

    TOP TIP Leave to stand for a few minutes until the white gum balls start to turn dark. The gum balls in the henna are help the henna and water bind together.

     

    Mapping

    Map your clients brows to the desired shape with mapping thread.

    TOP TIP Use mapping paste and go around the brow with the paste using a slanted brush. This can create an accurate working area and prevents the paste staining the skin.

     

     

    Clean Up

    These micro cotton buds are great for many different reasons I use these with every henna or tint application

    -Allows you to create precise work
    -Removes unwanted tint/henna dyes
    -Clean up any brow mapping

    The list of how to use these is endless, and they are a great tool to keep in your beauty supplies.

    Lash Factor Micro Cotton Buds

    Finish

    To finsih my brows I apply a small amount of conceler under the brow with a straight brush to add depth and definition its fraws attention to the brow and really makes it POP!

     

  • What can effect the retention?

    You have followed all the steps correctly, but the colour still fades more quickly than expected. What other reasons could there be for this?

    -The client has a very oily skin that does not adhere well to the henna

    -The client uses oil-based facial products

    -The skin has not been cleaned properly and there was still some makeup or products on the skin

    -The client has very full eyebrows, making it difficult to cover all the skin under the brows with henna

    -The client's eyebrows are too thin, which means that the henna didn't stick properly. Henna works best when it has hair to bind itself to

    -The client has got their eyebrows wet or cleaned their brows within 24 hours. Sport or sweating in the first 24 hours can also cause the henna to fade quickly

    -You have applied an incorrect henna shade

  • Useful Links

    Mrs. Highbrow online colour theory FREE
    https://mrshighbrowprofessional.com/collections/academy/products/online-specialisatie-henna-kleur-kiezen?variant=42354228986068

    Netherlands

    Henna Kit Mrs. Highbrow website
    https://mrshighbrowprofessional.com/en/collections/starter-kits/products/dyotics-brow-henna-starter-kit

    Mapping Paste

    https://mrshighbrowprofessional.com/en/collections/dyotics/products/dyotics-brow-contour-paste

    UK

    Henna Kit Lash Factor
    https://lashfactor.co.uk/product/upgraded-dyotics-henna-kit/

    Dyotics SDS(MSDS) Sheets
    https://lashfactor.co.uk/safety-data-sheets/

    Mapping Paste

    https://lashfactor.co.uk/product/dyotics-brow-contour-paste-5g/

    Want to add henna to your treatment list? Visit my academy website for more information 
    https://www.theacademyofaestheticsandbeauty.com/henna-brows

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