Group identification is critical to receive accurate advice.  If you do not know which group to select, please call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 for more tailored assistance.

If we do not answer, leave a message, and we will return your call within four business hours.  If you do not hear back from us after four hours, please call again in case of human or technology error.  Do not bring the animal to PAWS Wildlife Center without getting further instructions because admission may not be necessary depending on the species and situation.

Currently, bats are the only mammal in Washington state known to carry and transmit rabies.  Never touch a bat with your bare hands!  To maximize your safety, we recommend calling PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 with bat related questions.

If we do not answer, leave a message, and we will return your call within four business hours.  If you do not hear back from us after four hours, please call again in case of human or technology error. 

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If you or your pet had confirmed or suspected contact with a bat, contact public health for your county and your healthcare provider or veterinarian.  Click here to find your public health department.

Group identification is critical to receive accurate advice.  If you do not know which group to select, please call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 for more tailored assistance.

If we do not answer, leave a message, and we will return your call within four business hours.  If you do not hear back from us after four hours, please call again in case of human or technology error.  Do not bring the animal to PAWS Wildlife Center without getting further instructions because admission may not be necessary depending on the species and situation.

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Alternatively, your question might pertain to other wild hoof stock (Caribou, Bighorn Sheep, Mountain Goat, or Moose).  Having issues with these species is very unlikely given their habitat and/or limited distribution.

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Lastly, your question might pertain to domestic hoof stock (goats, cattle).  PAWS Wildlife Center is only permitted to care for wildlife. To find help with domestics, please search 'farm animal rescue near me' to find an appropriate facility. 

We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center can only provide temporary, emergency care for this species.  Ideally, take fawns directly to another rehabilitator to minimize stress and need for transfer.

If the fawn is severely injured, critical, or you cannot make it to another rehabilitator in a reasonable amount of time, please call us at 425-412-4040 to speak with us before coming in.  There are geographic restrictions surrounding deer admissions and other logistics we need to discuss.

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There is limited space for animals in rehabilitation centers, and we must reserve these spaces for those who truly need our help.  Even with all the hazards of the wild, babies are most successful and best raised by their wild parents.  We always assume the parents are alive and caring for their babies unless proven otherwise.

Many animals will have alternate den/nest sites in the case of disruption or damage.  Additionally, all young are left alone for periods of time while the parents forage and to avoid attracting predators to the nest.  Make sure you attempted to renest or reunite this healthy orphan following our instructions unless mother is confirmed dead.  If you didn’t confirm orphanage or abandonment using our instructions, go back and select “Orphan (healthy) – suspected.”

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding another rehabilitator.

We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center can only provide temporary, emergency care for this species.  Ideally, take fawns directly to another rehabilitator to minimize stress and need for transfer.

If the fawn is severely injured, critical, or you cannot make it to another rehabilitator in a reasonable amount of time, please call us at 425-412-4040 to speak with us before coming in.  There are geographic restrictions surrounding deer admissions and other logistics we need to discuss.

*Note: Fawns remain in one location for a prolonged periods of time and may not run when approached.  This is alone is not concerning for injury or sickness.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding another rehabilitator.

Dependent Deer - Trapped in/on solid object

Be mindful of your safety while attempting to free fawns.  Deer have strong hind legs and kick and thrash head when restrained, trapped, or threatened.  Take care to place your body such that you will not be kicked.  Covering the animal’s head/eyes will reduce their stress and may cause them to struggle less.

Animals usually get stuck at their hips, so you can try to gently push or pull the animal to free them.  You can also attempt to bend the bars or wires of a fence to increase the gap, allowing the animal to pass through.  Lastly, you can cut the animal free, but make sure to cut in such a way that they will not have pieces of the fence stuck on them.  Consider modifying fencing materials to prevent future issues.

In most cases, the goal is to free the animal and allow them to run away.  Depending on how long they were trapped, they may be lethargic or have visible wounds.  We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center can only provide temporary, emergency care for this species.  Ideally, take fawns directly to another rehabilitator to minimize stress and need for transfer.

If the fawn is severely injured, critical, or you cannot make it to another rehabilitator in a reasonable amount of time, please call us at 425-412-4040 to speak with us before coming in.  There are geographic restrictions surrounding deer admissions and other logistics we need to discuss.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding another rehabilitator.

As humans develop and move into space that were once natural, we see more animals adapting to living in an urban environment.  Unless the animal is trapped by a physical barrier, injured, or sick, do not be concerned about seeing wildlife in “unnatural” areas.  While the habitat may not seem safe or ideal to us, the animals have no other options in most cases and will adapt.  Relocating animals to a more appropriate habitat is not feasible and would do more harm than good.

Consider supporting wildlife and offsetting habitat loss by making a Backyard Wildlife Sanctuary!

Independent Deer - Trapped in solid object (fence)

Be mindful of your safety while attempting to free fawns.  Deer have strong hind legs and kick and thrash head when restrained, trapped, or threatened.  Take care to place your body such that you will not be kicked.  Covering the animal’s head/eyes will reduce their stress and may cause them to struggle less.

Animals usually get stuck at their hips, so you can try to gently push or pull the animal to free them.  You can also attempt to bend the bars or wires of a fence to increase the gap, allowing the animal to pass through.  Lastly, you can cut the animal free, but make sure to cut in such a way that they will not have pieces of the fence stuck on them.  Consider modifying fencing materials to prevent future issues.

In most cases, the goal is to free the animal and allow them to run away.  Depending on how long they were trapped, they may be severely injured and lethargic.  Adult deer /elk are incredibly large, heavy, and strong, even when injured.  If you observe an injured adult, we recommend simply monitoring if the animal is still mobile.  Despite injuries, many animals do okay for a while and can even heal without intervention depending on the circumstances.  If the animal is unable to stand, walk, or has declined significantly since first observation, we recommend looking into humane euthanasia by local police, state troopers, or animal control depending on the animal’s location.

Because of their temperament, adult deer and elk stand a poor chance for successful rehabilitation and carry a high risk of injury to themselves or their caretakers.  As such, there are no rehabilitators who will treat injured adults of this species.

Adult deer/elk are incredibly large, heavy, and strong, even when injured.  If you observe an injured adult, we recommend simply monitoring if the animal is still mobile.  Despite injuries, many animals do okay for a while and can even heal without intervention depending on the circumstances.  If the animal is unable to stand, walk, or has declined significantly since first observation, we recommend looking into humane euthanasia by local police, state troopers, sheriff, or animal control depending on the animal’s location. 

Because of their temperament, adult deer and elk stand a poor chance for successful rehabilitation and carry a high risk of injury to themselves or their caretakers.  As such, there are no rehabilitators who will treat injured adults of this species. 

European / Domestic Rabbits are pets who escaped, were abandoned, or are feral.  In certain areas, large populations of domestic rabbits exist due to feral reproduction.  They are legal to own as pets, but illegal for wildlife rehabilitators to treat and release.  In accordance, PAWS Wildlife Center cannot accept this species, and PAWS Companion Animal Shelter only accepts cats and dogs.

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If the bunny is brown or agouti, please be sure you confirm the species is domestic before keeping them as a pet since wild bunnies have this coloration as well.  To find help with domestic rabbits, please search 'pet rabbit rescue near me' to find an appropriate facility. 

While Snowshoe Hares are common in western Washington, they are relatively uncommon patients at PAWS Wildlife Center.  To an untrained eye, they look very similar to the extremely abundant, Eastern Cottontail.  We recommend you call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 to confirm the species identification.

If we do not answer, leave a message, and we will return your call within four business hours.  If you do not hear back from us after four hours, please call again in case of human or technology error.  Do not bring the animal to PAWS Wildlife Center without getting further instructions because admission may not be necessary depending on the species and situation.

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Please note, young hares (leverets) do not spend significant time with their mother.  They hide alone or possibly with a sibling or two in well vegetated locations during the day.  Once a day, leverets will gather and nurse on mother before parting ways again.  Do not capture apparently healthy young leverets unless we recommend doing so after speaking with you.

Group identification is critical to receive accurate advice.  If you do not know which group to select, please call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 for more tailored assistance.

If we do not answer, leave a message, and we will return your call within four business hours.  If you do not hear back from us after four hours, please call again in case of human or technology error.  Do not bring the animal to PAWS Wildlife Center without getting further instructions because admission may not be necessary depending on the species and situation.

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Alternatively, your question might pertain to other wild lagomorphs (Pygmy Rabbit, Nutall’s Cottontail, jackrabbits, or Pika).  These species are uncommon patients at PAWS Wildlife Center, and require identification confirmation before we can advise.

Seals and sea lions leave their pups on the shore while foraging.  The duration of these absences increases as the pup grows.  Once the pup is strong enough, they will accompany their mother on short swims and return to shore for rest.  If being alone is the only cause for concern, no action, monitoring, or follow up is needed.  Simply leave the area and allow nature to do its thing.

 If you suspect abandonment for another reason (mom killed, seal vocalizing excessively, approaching people, very thin, etc.), report the animal to the West Coast Marine Mammal Stranding Network at 866-767-6114 or find the appropriate local stranding network by region.

Remember, seals may abandon their young if people, dogs, and other predators remain too close to their baby.  In accordance with federal law, maintain a 100-yard distance -- do not approach or touch marine mammals.

Seals and sea lions may stay in the same general area for a long time if young or resting, so this alone is not cause for concern.  If the animal in question appears sick or injured, you can report them to the West Coast Marine Mammal Stranding Network at 866-767-6114 or find the appropriate local stranding network by region.

In accordance with federal law, maintain a 100-yard distance -- do not approach or touch marine mammals.  PAWS Wildlife Center is permitted to treat marine mammals, but NOAA determines which animals are fit for rehabilitation.  We cannot accept animals from the general public.

Some seals species are very gregarious while others lead more solitary lives outside of breeding season.  Other species, like the Elephant Seal, defend a harem of females from competing males.  Regardless of the circumstances, when many animals share finite resources, there is bound to be competition and feuding.   Most of these interactions do not result in serious injury.  This is a normal part of their biology, and you should not interfere.

If the scuffle ends and you have concerns, you can report an injured or sick marine mammal to the West Coast Marine Mammal Stranding Network at 866-767-6114.  In accordance with federal law, maintain a 100-yard distance -- do not approach the animal on your own.

Report entangled marine mammals to the Entanglement Reporting Hotline at 877-767-9425.  In accordance with federal law, maintain a 100-yard distance -- do not approach or attempt to free the animal on your own.

Report harassment by people or off leash dogs or a marine mammal in danger to NOAA Office of Law Enforcement at 800-853-1964.  Also, notify the appropriate local stranding network for your region.  In accordance with federal law, maintain a 100-yard distance -- do not approach or touch marine mammals.

Report dead marine mammals to the West Coast Marine Mammal Stranding Network at 866-767-6114.  Leave animal in place and do not approach until receiving guidance from them.

Group identification is critical to receive accurate advice.  If you do not know which group to select, please call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 for more tailored assistance.

If we do not answer, leave a message, and we will return your call within four business hours.  If you do not hear back from us after four hours, please call again in case of human or technology error.  Do not bring the animal to PAWS Wildlife Center without getting further instructions because admission may not be necessary depending on the species and situation.

We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator* for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center admits this species, but has limited capacity due to space and manpower.

*Note: Opossums sometimes freeze rather than run from predators.  This means you could potentially catch a perfectly healthy opossum, thinking they were sick or injured.  If not running away is the only cause for concern, we recommend leaving the animal alone and checking the next day.  If they are in the same place and still not running away, we recommend bringing them in at that point.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and capacity information.

We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center admits this species, but has limited capacity due to space and manpower.

If you are comfortable, carefully remove the babies from the mother’s pouch.  You need to be very careful not to tear the teats which are very long, thin, and delicate.  They can sometimes rip and remain inside the young during removal.   If you prefer to leave them in the pouch, we can remove them when you arrive.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and capacity information.

72. Caught by cat or dog

We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center admits this species, but has limited capacity due to space and manpower.

Small wounds caused by cat teeth and claws are easily missed.  Cats carry a virulent bacterium, Pasteurella multocida, that causes infection and death to small animals even if the wounds themselves are minor.  To prevent future incidents and protect your pet, keep cats indoors or in a secure outdoor enclosure.

Dogs also carry this bacterium, but much less frequently. The way dogs typically catch and handle “prey” makes them less likely to cause small wounds and scratches.   We see crushing and shaking injuries more commonly with dog attacks, such as internal bleeding or spinal cord injuries, which are harder to diagnose.  To help prevent future incidents, try to keep your dog on a leash or check your yard for wildlife prior to letting the dog out.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and capacity information.

101. Injured or Sick / Orphan

We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center admits this species, but has limited capacity due to space and manpower.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and capacity information.

82. Trapped in solid object

Your approach will vary depending on the object in question and the species.  Be mindful of your safety and do not place hands or body in front of animals who bite.  Sometimes creative tool use (sticks, grabbers, etc.) allows you to be safe while still helping the animal.

Fence: Animals usually get stuck at their hips, so you can try to gently push or pull the animal to free them.  You can also attempt to bend the bars or wires of a fence to increase the gap, allowing the animal to pass through.  Lastly, you can cut the animal free, but make sure to cut in such a way that they will not have pieces of the fence stuck on them.  Consider modifying fencing materials to prevent future issues.

Window Well: Use a shovel or broom to boost them up.  Install a window well cover or ramp to prevent future issues.

Dumpster:  If the animal is in the bottom of an empty dumpster, just add a branch or sheet for them to climb to get out.  For animals who can’t climb, you can use a shovel to scoop them up and raise them to the top.  If the animal is stuck through a rusty portion of the side of the dumpster, call the business that owns or services the dumpster for assistance.

Birdfeeder: Cut, bend, or break the feeder to free the animal.  If one animal got stuck, we recommend retiring that feeder.  If you cannot free the animal safely or due to lack appropriate tools, you can bring the whole feeder and animal combination to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.

Snap Trap: Scoop the animal (with the trap on) into a box with lid.  If you can do so safely and without the animal running away, remove the trap from the animal.  In all scenarios, take the animal to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.  Do not use snap traps outdoors to avoid future issues.

Glue Trap or Fly Paper:  Cover the remaining exposed glue/adhesive with dirt, leave, grass, paper, etc. to prevent the animal from sticking more.  Do not remove the animal from the trap, oil, or wash them.  Take the animal to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.  Do not use glue traps or fly paper outside to prevent future issues.

Chimney: Help animals out the top by dropping a knotted rope or sheet down through the top with something weighted tied to the bottom, then leave the area and give the animal a chance to climb out.  Alternatively, you can let the animal down into the fireplace and then follow the directions listed below for “house .” Install a chimney cap to prevent future issues.

Pool (empty or full): Add a branch/log, piece of wood, chair, etc. for the animal to use as a ramp or stairs to exit.  Alternatively, use a shovel or broom to boost the animal to the edge.  Securely cover the pool when not in use, install stairs, and/or use a FrogLog ramp to prevent future issues .

House: If the animal entered the house by mistake, you can point them to the exit by closing as many interior doors as possible and then opening as many exit doors and windows as possible.  Turn off lights indoors and shine lights toward/through the exits.  Most animals will leave quickly.  For slower moving animals, you can point them in the right direction using a broom to shoo them toward the door.  Secure dog doors, patch holes, and use window screens to avoid future issues.

If the animal is trapped in an unlisted object, please call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 for more tailored assistance.

In most cases, the goal is to free the animal and allow them to run away (unless specifically stated otherwise).  Depending on how long they were trapped, they may be lethargic or have visible wounds.  We recommend bringing those animals to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center admits this species, but has limited capacity due to space and manpower.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and capacity information.

93. Approaching people and/or pets

Animals may approach (or lack fear of) people and pets for a number of reasons that do not require any intervention unless the situation is dangerous or problematic.  In fact, some animals (skunks, Mountain Beaver) have poor vision and may not be able to see you or your pet in their path!  Identify the most likely reason for the behavior below and follow the instructions:

• The animal is young and cannot identify or is physically unable to avoid predators.  Give the animal space and keep pets leashed or in another area until the animal leaves or matures.
• The animal is young, possibly orphaned, and desperate.  Young animals who are hungry may wander up to anything that moves in an act of desperation.  Go back and select “Orphan (healthy) – Suspected” from the situation list for further instructions.
• The animal was raised and released by an unpermitted person.  When unpermitted individuals raise wild animals, they often have only a singleton of that species and raise the animal more like a pet than a wild animal.  The results in an animal who is very habituated (used to) people or enjoys and seeks out the company of people.  Sometimes, as the animal matures to adulthood, these interactions become dangerous and aggressive.  Call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 for individualized advice in this scenario.
• The animal is being fed by people (intentionally or otherwise) and values the easy food source.  Animals may become reliant on or expect food from humans which habituates them.  Over time, they become bolder and will get closer to people.  We do not recommend feeding wildlife to avoid these interactions.  Secure all food sources (pet food, garbage, etc.), stop providing intentional hand-outs, and discuss issues with neighbors as they may also be contributing to the problem.  If necessary, implement a humane hazing protocol to scare animals and encourage them to move on.
• The animal is suffering from a disease, injury, or blindness.  Animals falling into this category are easily identified as they often have mobility problems, bump into things, or are visibly unwell/injured.  Please note, bats are the only wild mammals known to carry rabies in Washington state at this time.  Many other diseases and injuries can cause an animal to behave abnormally.  Go back and select “Injured or sick” from the situation list for further instruction.

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We do not recommend encouraging or teaching wild animals to approach people or pets for the safety of all parties.   While you may find the interaction pleasant and welcomed, others may not feel the same which puts the animal in danger.  A healthy fear of humans and domestic animals is essential to a wild animal’s success.

98. Caught by cat or dog

We recommend bringing this animal to PAWS Wildlife Center for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found it.  We do not have a field rescue or transportation service and rely on members of the public to capture and deliver wildlife to our center.

Small wounds caused by cat teeth and claws are easily missed.  Cats carry a virulent bacterium, Pasteurella multocida, that causes infection and death to small animals even if the wounds themselves are minor.  To prevent future incidents and protect your pet, keep cats indoors or in a secure outdoor enclosure.

Dogs also carry this bacterium, but much less frequently. The way dogs typically catch and handle “prey” makes them less likely to cause small wounds and scratches.   We see crushing and shaking injuries more commonly with dog attacks, such as internal bleeding or spinal cord injuries, which are harder to diagnose.  To help prevent future incidents, try to keep your dog on a leash or check your yard for wildlife prior to letting the dog out.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and drop-off information.

87a. Caught by cat or dog

We recommend bringing this animal to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center does not treat this species or age and can only offer humane euthanasia, but there are other rehabilitators who may be able to help!

Small wounds caused by cat teeth and claws are easily missed.  Cats carry a virulent bacterium, Pasteurella multocida, that causes infection and death to small animals even if the wounds themselves are minor.  To prevent future incidents and protect your pet, keep cats indoors or in a secure outdoor enclosure.

Dogs also carry this bacterium, but much less frequently. The way dogs typically catch and handle “prey” makes them less likely to cause small wounds and scratches.   We see crushing and shaking injuries more commonly with dog attacks, such as internal bleeding or spinal cord injuries, which are harder to diagnose.  To help prevent future incidents, try to keep your dog on a leash or check your yard for wildlife prior to letting the dog out.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding a rehabilitator.

92. Caught by natural predator

We do not recommend interrupting natural predator attacks.  If you haven’t intervened already, please allow the interaction to occur.  We know this seems harsh and can be difficult to watch, but the predator needs to eat and/or feed their family.   When humans interrupt this process, the victim is often terminally injured and the predator misses a meal opportunity, forcing them to catch and kill another animal.

If you already intervened (or the predator moved on for another reason), we recommend you bring the victim to PAWS Wildlife Center for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found it.  We do not have a field rescue or transportation service and rely on members of the public to capture and deliver wildlife to our center.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and drop-off information.

91. Caught by natural predator

We do not recommend interrupting natural predator attacks.  If you haven’t intervened already, please allow the interaction to occur.  We know this seems harsh and can be difficult to watch, but the predator needs to eat and/or feed their family.   When humans interrupt this process, the victim is often terminally injured and the predator misses a meal opportunity, forcing them to catch and kill another animal.

If you already intervened (or the predator moved on for another reason), we recommend you bring the victim to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center does not treat this species or age and can only offer humane euthanasia, but there are other rehabilitators who may be able to help!

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding another rehabilitator.

94. Caught by natural predator

We do not recommend interrupting natural predator attacks.  If you haven’t intervened already, please allow the interaction to occur.  We know this seems harsh and can be difficult to watch, but the predator needs to eat and/or feed their family.   When humans interrupt this process, the victim is often terminally injured and the predator misses a meal opportunity, forcing them to catch and kill another animal.

If you already intervened (or the predator moved on for another reason), we recommend you bring the victim to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center admits this species, but has limited capacity due to space and manpower.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and capacity information.

97. Damaging property or eating undesirable items

Prevent animals from eating undesirable items or destroying property by preventing access, removing attractants, and/or modifying expectations.  Exclusion fencing blocks entry to entire areas, individual plants, or garden beds.  For digging or burrowing animals, underground barriers are also required.

Other humane solutions to consider are:

• Complete removal of attractive food sources
• Taste and odor deterrents placed on food items
• Switch to animal resistant landscaping or hardier plants
• Visual, auditory, and olfactory scare tactics

When parents or young animals are involved, we recommend waiting until babies have grown up to avoid accidently separating parent from young or causing abandonment.  For details and species-specific ideas, check out WDFW’s Species Fact Sheets!  Click the appropriate group/species and review the “Living with Wildlife” and “Preventing Conflicts” sections.

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We do not recommend using poison, glue traps, and snap traps.  In addition to being inhumane and/or illegal for the target species, they often kill non-target animals.  Every year, we treat hundreds of birds, mammals, and reptiles accidentally caught or poisoned by these devices.

Live trapping, relocating, and killing animals is ineffective, inhumane, and often illegal without a permit.  In the short term, the problem appears solved, but it is only a matter of time before the next animal discovers the resource.  Relocation removes an animal from their natural habitat and territory and drops them into an unfamiliar one.  In this new location, transplants struggle to find food, shelter, and often fight with residents.  You also risk introducing new species and diseases into the area.

We recommend practicing tolerance and compassion.  We know this is frustrating, but animals are just doing their best to survive and adapt to their ever-changing environment.

96. Dead (reporting, disposal)

If the animal is not in rigor mortis (stiff) or obviously dead, confirm death prior to acting.  Closely observe the animal’s chest for two minutes to check for respirations, if none are present, the animal is likely dead.  If there is still doubt, leave the animal and check again later for any movement or respirations.  Wear gloves and wash hands or use a shovel to move deceased wildlife.

Dead wildlife on private property:

• Leave in place and allow natural scavenging/decomposition
• If less than fifteen pounds, double bag and dispose of with household trash.
• If greater than fifteen pounds, requires special disposal.  You can request pick-up in Seattle.  Otherwise, you should call local animal shelters, veterinarians, or animal control for help with disposal.
• Property owner is responsible for disposal.

Dead wildlife on public property/roadways:

• Leave in place/do nothing if not posing a public safety issue
• For state roads and highways, contact WA Department of Transportation at 206-440-4000.
• For county roads, contact the county public works department for road maintenance.
• For city roads, contact animal control or public works department for road maintenance.

Generally speaking, you cannot legally keep wildlife found dead, but there are special permits and exceptions.  If desired, you can report the dead animal to WDFW.

85. Entangled in material

If the animal is tethered in one location by the entangling material, hold on to a piece of the material between the animal and the anchor point and then cut the material free of the anchor.  You should be left with the animal (still entangled) now tethered to you.  For potentially dangerous animals (carnivores, rodents), drop a box/storage container over them before cutting the anchor point.  Follow the safe capture information on subsequent pages at this point.

If the animal is moving freely but clearly has foreign material around a portion of their body, follow the safe capture guidelines on subsequent pages.  If there is fishing line coming from the mouth, do not cut it off.  We can use this to help remove ingested hooks.

We recommend bringing all entanglement cases to PAWS Wildlife Center for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found it.  We do not have a field rescue or transportation service and rely on members of the public to capture and deliver wildlife to our center.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and drop-off information.

86. Entangled in material

If the animal is tethered in one location by the entangling material, hold on to a piece of the material between the animal and the anchor point and then cut the material free of the anchor.  You should be left with the animal (still entangled) now tethered to you.  For potentially dangerous animals (carnivores, rodents), drop a box/storage container over them before cutting the anchor point.  Follow the safe capture information on subsequent pages at this point.

If the animal is moving freely but clearly has foreign material around a portion of their body, follow the safe capture guidelines on subsequent pages.  If there is fishing line coming from the mouth, do not cut it off.  We can use this to help remove ingested hooks.

We recommend bringing all entanglement cases to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center does not treat this species or age and can only offer humane euthanasia, but there are other rehabilitators who may be able to help!

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding another rehabilitator.

99. Injured or sick / Orphan

We recommend bringing this animal to PAWS Wildlife Center for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found it.  We do not have a field rescue or transportation service and rely on members of the public to capture and deliver wildlife to our center.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and drop-off information.

100a. Injured or sick / Orphan

We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center does not treat this species or age and can only offer humane euthanasia, but there are other rehabilitators who may be able to help!

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding another rehabilitator.

80. Nest/den destroyed or Orphan - suspected

There is limited space for animals in rehabilitation centers, and we must reserve these spaces for those who truly need our help.  Even with all the hazards of the wild, babies are most successful and best raised by their wild parents.  We always assume the parents are alive and caring for their babies unless proven otherwise.  Never take an animal from the wild because you think they will be safer or more successful in captivity!

Many animals have alternate den/nest sites if the original is disrupted or damaged, so we need to give mom time to find and move her babies.  All young are left alone for periods of time while the parents forage and to avoid attracting predators to the nest, so absence of a parent does not mean they are an orphan.  If the animal appears healthy and mom was not found dead, download step-by-step instructions for renesting, reuniting, and confirming orphanage by clicking the correct species below:

• Deer / Elk
• Eastern Cottontail

501a. Orphan (healthy) - confirmed

We recommend bringing the animal(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center does not treat this species or age and can only offer humane euthanasia, but there are other rehabilitators who may be able to help!

There is limited space for animals in rehabilitation centers, and we must reserve these spaces for those who truly need our help.  Even with all the hazards of the wild, babies are most successful and best raised by their wild parents.  We always assume the parents are alive and caring for their babies unless proven otherwise. 

Many animals will have alternate den/nest sites in the case of disruption or damage.  Additionally, all young are left alone for periods of time while the parents forage and to avoid attracting predators to the nest.  Make sure you attempted to renest or reunite this healthy orphan following our instructions unless mother is confirmed dead.  If you didn’t confirm orphanage or abandonment using our instructions, go back and select “Orphan (healthy) – suspected.”

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding another rehabilitator.

69. Out during day

While this species is mostly nocturnal or crepuscular, seeing them during the day is not cause for concern.  Bats are currently the only mammal in Washington known to carry rabies.  Sometimes, especially during summer when raising young or harsh winter weather, animals who would prefer to be active at night are forced to spend more time looking for food during daylight hours.  If the animal appears healthy, no action is required, simply leave the area and let them go about their business.  

95. Other / Unsure

Your situation may be too specific or uncommon to cover in a self-help form, or you accidentally chose the wrong answer to a previous question.  Do not bring the animal to PAWS Wildlife Center before receiving more tailored assistance.

You can try finding an answer via these methods:

• Restart the self-help form.
• Restart the mammal module.
• Search our website.
• Email us at wildlifeinfo@paws.org (for non-urgent matters only).
• Call us at 425-412-4040 (for urgent wildlife matters not covered by this self-help form).

89. Present or nesting in undesirable location

Follow the instructions for the situation that fits best.

Entered indoor space by mistake:  You can help them find the exit by turning off all interior lights and then opening as many doors and windows as possible to allow for escape.  You can shine a light through escape routes (if natural light is not sufficient), and most animals find the exit.  For slower moving animals, you can use a broom to shoo them toward the exit while maintaining a safe distance.  Do not corner animals as this makes them feel trapped, and they are more likely to be aggressive.

Living, sleeping, nesting or raising young in indoor space: If the animal has not been there long, there is the chance they will just move along on their own assuming there are no ongoing attractants (food, water, or shelter).  You can prevent or discourage animals from accessing undesired indoor spaces through eviction followed by exclusion.  When babies are present, we recommend waiting until after they disperse to avoid abandonments. WDFW has a comprehensive guide to doing this safely.

Living or sleeping in outdoor space (no babies involved): If the animal has not been there long, there is the chance they will just move along on their own.  Some animals are nomadic and do not stay in one place long.  If they do not leave naturally, you can encourage them by removing all attractants (food, water, and shelter), installing exclusion devices, and/or implementing a humane hazing plan.  For details and species-specific ideas, check out WDFW’s Species Fact Sheets!  Click the appropriate group/species and review the “Living with Wildlife” and “Preventing Conflicts” sections.

Nesting or raising young in outdoor space: If the animal is still in the nesting phase, but hasn’t actually given birth yet, you can remove the nest and follow the recommendations above to discourage future attempts.  Once the young are born, we ask you adjust your expectations and practice tolerance until they mature and disperse.  Mother animal picked this location for a reason, even if it is inconvenient to us or appears unsafe to us.  Keep people and pets away from the area as much as possible.  Most animals mature quickly and will be gone in less than a month.

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We do not recommend using poison, glue traps, and snap traps.  In addition to being inhumane and/or illegal for the target species, they often kill non-target animals.  Every year, we treat hundreds of birds, mammals, and reptiles accidentally caught or poisoned by these devices.

Live trapping, relocating, and killing animals is ineffective, inhumane, and often illegal without a permit.  In the short term, the problem appears solved, but it is only a matter of time before the next animal discovers the resource.  Relocation removes an animal from their natural habitat and territory and drops them into an unfamiliar one.  In this new location, transplants struggle to find food, shelter, and often fight with residents.  You also risk introducing new species and diseases into the area.

We recommend practicing tolerance and compassion.  We know this is frustrating, but animals are just doing their best to survive and adapt to their ever-changing environment.

88. Trapped in solid object

Your approach will vary depending on the object in question and the species.  Be mindful of your safety and do not place hands or body in front of animals who bite.  Sometimes creative tool use (sticks, grabbers, etc.) allows you to be safe while still helping the animal.

Fence: Animals usually get stuck at their hips, so you can try to gently push or pull the animal to free them.  You can also attempt to bend the bars or wires of a fence to increase the gap, allowing the animal to pass through.  Lastly, you can cut the animal free, but make sure to cut in such a way that they will not have pieces of the fence stuck on them.  Consider modifying fencing materials to prevent future issues.

Window Well: Use a shovel or broom to boost them up.  Install a window well cover or ramp to prevent future issues.

Dumpster:  If the animal is in the bottom of an empty dumpster, just add a branch or sheet for them to climb to get out.  For animals who can’t climb, you can use a shovel to scoop them up and raise them to the top.  If the animal is stuck through a rusty portion of the side of the dumpster, call the business that owns or services the dumpster for assistance.

Birdfeeder: Cut, bend, or break the feeder to free the animal.  If one animal got stuck, we recommend retiring that feeder.  If you cannot free the animal safely or due to lack appropriate tools, you can bring the whole feeder and animal combination to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.

Snap Trap: Scoop the animal (with the trap on) into a box with lid.  If you can do so safely and without the animal running away, remove the trap from the animal.  In all scenarios, take the animal to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.  Do not use snap traps outdoors to avoid future issues.

Glue Trap or Fly Paper:  Cover the remaining exposed glue/adhesive with dirt, leave, grass, paper, etc. to prevent the animal from sticking more.  Do not remove the animal from the trap, oil, or wash them.  Take the animal to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.  Do not use glue traps or fly paper outside to prevent future issues.

Chimney: Help animals out the top by dropping a knotted rope or sheet down through the top with something weighted tied to the bottom, then leave the area and give the animal a chance to climb out.  Alternatively, you can let the animal down into the fireplace and then follow the directions listed below for “house .” Install a chimney cap to prevent future issues.

Pool (empty or full): Add a branch/log, piece of wood, chair, etc. for the animal to use as a ramp or stairs to exit.  Alternatively, use a shovel or broom to boost the animal to the edge.  Securely cover the pool when not in use, install stairs, and/or use a FrogLog ramp to prevent future issues .

House: If the animal entered the house by mistake, you can point them to the exit by closing as many interior doors as possible and then opening as many exit doors and windows as possible.  Turn off lights indoors and shine lights toward/through the exits.  Most animals will leave quickly.  For slower moving animals, you can point them in the right direction using a broom to shoo them toward the door.  Secure dog doors, patch holes, and use window screens to avoid future issues.

If the animal is trapped in an unlisted object, please call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 for more tailored assistance.

In most cases, the goal is to free the animal and allow them to run away (unless specifically stated otherwise).  Depending on how long they were trapped, they may be lethargic or have visible wounds.  We recommend bringing those animals to PAWS Wildlife Center for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  If we find no treatment is required, we may ask you to return the animal to where you found it.  We do not have a field rescue or transportation service and rely on members of the public to capture and deliver wildlife to our center.

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Continue to the next page for safe capture and drop-off information.

81. Trapped in solid object

Your approach will vary depending on the object in question and the species.  Be mindful of your safety and do not place hands or body in front of animals who bite.  Sometimes creative tool use (sticks, grabbers, etc.) allows you to be safe while still helping the animal.

Fence: Animals usually get stuck at their hips, so you can try to gently push or pull the animal to free them.  You can also attempt to bend the bars or wires of a fence to increase the gap, allowing the animal to pass through.  Lastly, you can cut the animal free, but make sure to cut in such a way that they will not have pieces of the fence stuck on them.  Consider modifying fencing materials to prevent future issues.

Window Well: Use a shovel or broom to boost them up.  Install a window well cover or ramp to prevent future issues.

Dumpster:  If the animal is in the bottom of an empty dumpster, just add a branch or sheet for them to climb to get out.  For animals who can’t climb, you can use a shovel to scoop them up and raise them to the top.  If the animal is stuck through a rusty portion of the side of the dumpster, call the business that owns or services the dumpster for assistance.

Birdfeeder: Cut, bend, or break the feeder to free the animal.  If one animal got stuck, we recommend retiring that feeder.  If you cannot free the animal safely or due to lack appropriate tools, you can bring the whole feeder and animal combination to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.

Snap Trap: Scoop the animal (with the trap on) into a box with lid.  If you can do so safely and without the animal running away, remove the trap from the animal.  In all scenarios, take the animal to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.  Do not use snap traps outdoors to avoid future issues.

Glue Trap or Fly Paper:  Cover the remaining exposed glue/adhesive with dirt, leave, grass, paper, etc. to prevent the animal from sticking more.  Do not remove the animal from the trap, oil, or wash them.  Take the animal to a rehabilitator as soon as possible.  Do not use glue traps or fly paper outside to prevent future issues.

Chimney: Help animals out the top by dropping a knotted rope or sheet down through the top with something weighted tied to the bottom, then leave the area and give the animal a chance to climb out.  Alternatively, you can let the animal down into the fireplace and then follow the directions listed below for “house .” Install a chimney cap to prevent future issues.

Pool (empty or full): Add a branch/log, piece of wood, chair, etc. for the animal to use as a ramp or stairs to exit.  Alternatively, use a shovel or broom to boost the animal to the edge.  Securely cover the pool when not in use, install stairs, and/or use a FrogLog ramp to prevent future issues .

House: If the animal entered the house by mistake, you can point them to the exit by closing as many interior doors as possible and then opening as many exit doors and windows as possible.  Turn off lights indoors and shine lights toward/through the exits.  Most animals will leave quickly.  For slower moving animals, you can point them in the right direction using a broom to shoo them toward the door.  Secure dog doors, patch holes, and use window screens to avoid future issues.

If the animal is trapped in an unlisted object, please call PAWS Wildlife Center at 425-412-4040 for more tailored assistance.

In most cases, the goal is to free the animal and allow them to run away (unless specifically stated otherwise).  Depending on how long they were trapped, they may be lethargic or have visible wounds.  We recommend bringing those animals to a wildlife rehabilitator for evaluation and potential rehabilitation.  PAWS Wildlife Center does not treat this species or age and can only offer humane euthanasia, but there are other rehabilitators who may be able to help!

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Continue to the next page for safe capture information and help finding a rehabilitator.

Capture and Containment – Split-Hoofed

Wear gloves (latex or gardening) and/or wash your hands after handling wildlife. Deer and elk will kick and thrash when restrained.  They have strong legs and sharp hooves that may tear clothing, scratch or bruise skin, or knock a person off balance.  Make sure you have stable footing and avoid placing your body near their hind legs.

Mobile animals attempt to flee approaching humans.

1. From a distance, evaluate the area for escape routes (dense vegetation, etc.) and containment areas (fence lines, garage, etc.).
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to increase the space you can block.  If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out.
3. Position yourself between the animal and escape routes.  You may need multiple people to surround the animal entirely or to block all escapes.
4. Slowly move toward the animal, herding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.  In some cases, you can herd the animal directly into a box, carrier, or crate for transport.  Deer and elk will panic as their escape routes diminish.  Remain calm and move slowly, allowing the deer to calm between advancements.  They may attempt to jump over or run past you if too scared.
   

   

5. Once within reach, follow the immobile animal directions below.

Immobile animals are unable to flee.  They feel trapped and vulnerable which makes aggression more likely.  

1. Cover the animal's head, whenever possible, with a dark and/or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, etc.). This decreases their visual stimulus, calming them and making them easier to restrain.
2. Restrain and pick up the deer with one arm around their neck and the other around their chest/abdomen.
   
   
   
   
3. Place into a container (large box, kennel, storage tub, etc.) with lid and air holes.  Do not provide food or water and avoid disturbing the animal once contained.  Keep in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets.

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If you are not comfortable picking up the animal, you can use a passive containment method:

Box and Top

1. Cover the animal with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes.
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box/animal and ground.
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords.  Alternatively, you can slowly invert the whole set-up, so the bottom becomes the top prior to securing the flat object in place.

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Continue to the next page for help finding a rehabilitator.

Capture and Containment - Shrew, Mole

Wear gloves (latex, gardening, or leather) and/or wash your hands after handling wildlife.  These animals will attempt to run away first, and only resort to biting once restrained.  Handle these animals from above and avoid placing hands or fingers near mouth.  Young animals with their eyes still closed have teeth, but will not bite.

Mobile animals attempt to flee approaching humans.

1. From a distance, evaluate the area for escape routes (water, dense vegetation, etc.) and containment areas (fence lines, garage, dog crate, etc.).
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to increase the space you can block.  If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out.
3. Position yourself between the animal and escape routes.  You may need multiple people to surround the animal entirely or to block all escapes.
4. Slowly move toward the animal, herding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.  In some cases, you can herd the animal directly into a box, carrier, or crate for transport.
   
   
   
   
5. Once within reach, follow the immobile animal directions below.

Immobile animals are unable to flee.  They feel trapped and vulnerable which makes aggression more likely.  

1. Cover the animal, including head, with a dark and/or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, coat, etc.). This decreases their visual stimulus, calming them and making them easier to restrain.
2. Restrain and pick up the animal over the back with a hand over shoulders. 
   
   
3. Place into a container (cardboard box, plastic storage container, etc.) with lid and air holes.  Do not provide food or water and avoid disturbing the animal once contained.  Keep in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets.

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If you are not comfortable picking up the animal, you can use a passive containment method:

Box and Top

1. Cover the animal with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes.
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box/animal and ground.
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords.  Alternatively, you can slowly invert the whole set-up, so the bottom becomes the top prior to securing the flat object in place. 

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Continue to the next page for drop-off information.

Capture and Containment - Lagomorpha

Wear gloves (latex or gardening) and/or wash your hands after handling wildlife.  Lagomorphs are not aggressive, but will kick and thrash when restrained.  They have powerful hind legs which can cause scratches, so handle them from above, avoiding placing your hands or arms below or behind their hind legs.

Mobile animals attempt to flee approaching humans.

1. From a distance, evaluate the area for escape routes (dense vegetation, etc.) and containment areas (fence lines, garage, dog crate, etc.).
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to increase the space you can block.  If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out.
3. Position yourself between the animal and escape routes.  You may need multiple people to surround the animal entirely or to block all escapes.
4. Slowly move toward the animal, herding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.  In some cases, you can herd the animal directly into a box, carrier, or crate for transport. 
   
   
   
   
5. Once within reach, follow the immobile animal directions below.

Immobile animals are unable to flee.  They feel trapped and vulnerable which makes aggression more likely.  

1. Cover the animal, including head, with a dark and/or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, coat, etc.). This decreases their visual stimulus, calming them and making them easier to restrain.
2. Restrain and pick up the bunny over the back.  For adults, place one hand over shoulders and the other over hips.
   
    
   
   
3. Place into a container (cardboard box, storage container, etc.) with lid and air holes.  Do not provide food or water and avoid disturbing the animal once contained.  Keep in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets.

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If you are not comfortable picking up the animal, you can use a passive containment method:

Box and Top

1. Cover the animal with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes.
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box/animal and ground.
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords.  Alternatively, you can slowly invert the whole set-up, so the bottom becomes the top prior to securing the flat object in place. 

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Continue to the next page for help finding a rehabilitator or drop off information.

Capture and Containment - Virginia Opossum

Wear gloves (latex, gardening, or leather) and/or wash your hands after handling wildlife.  Young opossums, less than the size of your fist, may bite but have very small teeth such that leather gloves or a heavy towel will protect you from injury. 

Large opossums who cannot or do not flee will hold their mouth ajar to display their teeth, and while not aggressive, they will not hesitate to bite if restrained.  Take care to handle adults from above and avoid placing hands or fingers near mouth.

Mobile animals attempt to flee approaching humans.

1. From a distance, evaluate the area for escape routes (dense vegetation, etc.) and containment areas (fence lines, garage, dog crate, etc.).
2. Hold an object (sheet, blanket, cardboard, coat, etc.) stretched between your hands to increase the space you can block.  If you do not have an object, just hold your hands out.
3. Position yourself between the animal and escape routes.  You may need multiple people to surround the animal entirely or to block all escapes.
4. Slowly move toward the animal, herding them away from escape routes and toward any containment areas.  In some cases, you can herd the animal directly into a box, carrier, or crate for transport.
   
   
   
   
5. Once within reach, follow the immobile animal directions below.

Immobile animals are unable to flee.  They feel trapped and vulnerable which makes aggression more likely.  

1. Cover the animal, including head, with a dark and/or heavy piece of fabric (sheet, blanket, coat, etc.). This decreases their visual stimulus, calming them and making them easier to restrain.
2. Restrain and pick up the animal over the back with a hand over shoulders and middle back.  For adults or larger juveniles, one hand over each shoulder directly behind the head to lift.
   
   
   
   
3. Place into a container (cardboard box, plastic storage container, kennel, etc.) with lid and air holes.  Do not provide food or water and avoid disturbing the animal once contained.  Keep in a warm, dark, quiet area away from people and pets.

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If you are not comfortable picking up the animal, you can use a passive containment method:

Box and Top

1. Cover the animal with a sturdy box or plastic storage container with air holes.
2. Slide a sturdy, flat object along the ground between the box/animal and ground.
3. Secure the flat object to the box using tape or bungee cords.  Alternatively, you can slowly invert the whole set-up, so the bottom becomes the top prior to securing the flat object in place. 

Scoop or Sweep

1. Use a shovel or broom to gently scoop or push the animal into a container (kennel, plastic storage container, cardboard box, etc.).
2. Secure the lid or close the door to the container, keeping your hands protected behind the lid or door as you work.  If using a kennel, you use the broom or shovel to push and hold the door close as you latch it.

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Continue to the next page for capacity information.

Mammal Capacity

• Opossums
  
  • Adults / Sub-Adults: SPACE AVAILABLE
  • Juveniles / Infants: SPACE AVAILABLE

If you come to PAWS Wildlife Center without calling ahead (if indicated above), you risk being turned away if we reach our capacity.  If we are at capacity and you bring the animal to us, we will do a physical exam and refer you to another rehabilitator if the animal is healthy enough to attempt rehabilitation.  If the exam shows the animal is irreversibly sick, injured, or dying, we will provide humane euthanasia to end or prevent suffering.

We will not transport animals to another rehabilitator on your behalf nor will we provide temporary care.  If the animal is not taken to another rehabilitator, we can only provide humane euthanasia. 

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Continue to the next page for drop-off information or help finding a rehabilitator.

Finding Another Rehabilitator

We are at capacity for this species.  Use these resources to find another rehabilitator:

• Animal Help Now
• WDFW’s List of Wildlife Rehabilitators
• WWRA’s Map of Rehabilitators

Make sure you call the other rehabilitator before arriving with the animal.  DO NOT show up without speaking with them first.

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If you bring an animal we are at capacity for or do not treat, we will do a physical exam and refer you to another rehabilitator if the animal is healthy enough to attempt rehabilitation.  If the exam shows the animal is irreversibly sick, injured, or dying, we will provide humane euthanasia to end or prevent suffering. 

We will not transport animals to another rehabilitator on your behalf nor will we provide temporary care.  If the animal is not taken to another rehabilitator, we can only provide humane euthanasia.

Location, Hours, and Drop-off Information

Confirm you will arrive during open hours. We are open seven days a week from 8am to 5pm, during winter season (Oct 1 to Mar 31) except holidays when we close at 1pm. If we recommended bringing the animal in, you do not need to call ahead.

• If we are open, head to PAWS Wildlife Center at 13508 State Route 9 SE Snohomish, WA 98296-8477 to drop off the animal.
• If we are closed, please wait until we open to drop off the animal.  Keep the container in a warm, dark, and quiet location away from people and pets.  Provide additional heat such as heating pad on low under half of container if location is cooler than room temperature. Do not provide food, water, or medicine.
  • Only in very rare circumstances is a 12-hour delay in care the difference between life and death, so do not panic.   Avoid disrupting the animal to check on them as this often results in accidental escape, stress and/or wasted energy.
  • Please note, unpermitted members of the public can only possess wildlife for 24-hours with the intent of bringing them to a rehabilitator.  Keeping wildlife long-term is illegal, and animals who receive care sooner have a better chance for survival.

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We do not have a transportation or pick-up service.  If transportation is an issue, try these creative solutions: friends, family, neighbors, local animal control, NextDoor, Facebook, and other community messaging boards.  If you've exhausted every possible option, you can call us at 425-412-4040, and we can help troubleshoot further.